j LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. * 
I **./• £13331. \ 



| UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. J 



SMALL FHUIT INSTRUCTOR ; 

CONTAINING PLAIN AND PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR 

PLANTING, GROWING AND MARKETING 
EQUALLY ADAPTED TO THE FAMILY GARDEN AS WELL AS THE FIELD, 

Price lO Cent*. 




WRITTEN 13Y' A. M. PURDY, 

OF THE FIRM OF 

PURDY & HANCE, SOUTH BEND, INDIANA. 

Small fruits are a luxury so easily grown, 

By the directions as given within. 
That no excuse can he given by the laziest drone. 

For not supplying himself and his kin. 



Entered, according to Act of Conpress in the year 1869, by PrHDY ft HANCE, in the Clerk's Office of 
the District Court uf the Northern District of the State of New York. 



EVENINO EXPRESS r-RJXT, EornFKTKR, N. T. 



PREFACE. 



For the past six or eight weeks we have been engaged a large portion 
of our time, on a work to bo composed of fully eighty pages, with 
the same title we have given to this little work ; Price to be 25 cents. 
It was made up to a large extent of notes and items we had penciled 
down from out' own observation, in planting, growing, marketing, &c, 
of all kinds of Small Fruits, and also with minute instructions for 
growing seedlings, roots, etc., &c, besides a great many facts and 
suggestions obtained from a number of intelligent and practical con- 
tributors in all parts of the country. The "copy" was nearly 
finished and in the hands of the printers at Rochester, N. Y., at the 
time of the fire there, on the 19th of December, which destroyed the 
printing establishment, and all of our manuscript. Many may ask why 
we did not keep a copy of this work. To such we reply, our business 
is so pressing and correspondence so large, as to make it impossible for 
us to copy it ; besides we had the promise from the printer, that we 
should have " proof sheets " as fast as we forwarded " copy." This 
they neglected to send notwithstanding we wrote them, complaining of 
such neglect. 

It is a great loss to us, and one that we cannot make good for a 
number of months ; but we shall endeavor to do so as fast as possible, 
and shall have ready in a few months a work containing fully three 
times the amount of matter herein, with the same title. As soon as 
published, due notice will be given in the advertising columns of all 
the leading Agricultural and Horticultural papers of the country. 
In the meantime we shall send out this little work, which we have 
hastily got up, for the small sum of 10 ets. It will be made up largely 
of our Manual for 1808, with enough new matter added, perhaps, to 
fully compensate those who have sent for both this and our Instructive 
Catalogue of 1868. 

N. 15. — Those who should road the advertisements that we had inserted in some 
papers, offering "Small Fruit Instructor," for 25 cents, and which we did not 
have time to countermand after the fire and before such papers went to press, and 
who have sent the 25 cents, will have three copies of this forwarded to them to sell 
or distribute among (heir friends. 



*??" 



' NOTICE 



All persons will notice that this work and its title is copyrighted. This is done to 
prevent parties who have been in the habit of getting up Catalogues, &c., copy- 
ing our directions and instructions almost word for word, without giving the proper 
credit. 

We have no objection to Editors copying from it, providing the proper credit is 
given. 

ADVICE TO NEW BEGINNERS. 

We are in receipt of a great number of letters making enquiries as to Small Fruit 
growing — how to be successful, &c. Friends, these are hard questions for us to 
answer, for all localities and all persons. Many fruits that are profitable in one 
locality are not in another, while varieties that will succeed and prove profitable in 
the hands of one person, with his manner of high culture, &c., will prove a failure 
in the hands of his more careless and slovenly neighbor. Our first advice is : Pro- 
cure land as close to a town as possible. If you intend to go into fruit largely, you 
must calculate to locate where plenty of pickers are to be had. We would prefer to 
pay two hundred dollars per acre for land for this purpose, that lay within a mile of 
town, than $100 per acre if over a mile, or $50 per acre if over two miles. Let 
any person calculate the difference in interest on the cost of such land, and compare 
it with the disadvantages one works under with it away from all the conveniences 
that surround the first named locality, and they will see the force and importance of 
our statement. Help must be convenient and plenty if you would be successful. 
Manure should be as close by as possible. The market, express office, and railroad 
or steamboat station near by ; all of these have their importance, that cannot be 
fully appreciated and valued until tried. 

The best soil for growing Small Fruits is of a light sandy or loomy nature, one 
that is easily worked. 

The next thing after securing your land is to go around among fruit growers in 
that locality, and learn from them what varieties succeed best with them. Read 
different works on the subject, and last, but most important of all, visit the grounds 
of some successful fruit growers, and " have your eyes and ears open." A few 
hours on such grounds will be of more practical value than reading all the works 
on Small Fruit yet published. 

There are certain tried sorts that have proved profitable and a success wherever 
grown. These we will endeavor to point out in our description of different sorts. 

Another important thing to be remembered is, to set an assortment of Small 
Fruits, — Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, Gooseberries, and Grapes, 
and of these early, medium and late sorts. By so doing, the grower can be more 
independent of the seller. He is more certain of making his business pay, for if 
one sort fails, another will not. The great trouble with many growers is that they 
will set out nearly all their ground to one variety, and if this fails, their main de- 
pendence is gone ; while if they had had others to fall back on, they would have 
come out right. We have known seasons when that old and reliable sort, Wilson's 
Albany Strawberry, would prove almost a failure, and pay but lightly, while our 
Jenny Linds and Downers would prove highly remunerative. 



Don't try experiments too largely, especially if your means are small, and instead 
of building air castles, go right to work with a will and build up a permanent busi- 
ness. Don't let a little drawback discourage you, — such as low prices some seasons, 
or a late spring frost or hard winter. Remember, these things will drive many out 
of the business, and that those who keep right along, year after year, will have the 
benefit of the seasons of high prices. 

We know that there are years when the winter preceding and the season follow- 
ing are universally favorable to the full fruiting of all kinds of Fruits, and that in 
such seasons the amount marketed is so largo as to cause prices to drop to a low 
figure ; but let it be remembered that such seasons are exceptions and not the rule, 
and that most seasons one locality is favored and another not, and other times 
vice versa. In our long experience in growing fruits, we have found that our crops 
of Small Fruits net us just about the same money every year ; for when the crop is 
large, prices are lower, and when small, higher. We have, however, some years, 
had large, full crops, when the crop in other localities would be light, and in such 
seasons our profits would be enormous. The summer of 1865, we believe, we sold 
over four hundred bushels of Strawberries, that averaged, in the Chicago market, 
$10 per bushel. This was owing to the crops being cut short in other localities. 

We propose, in order to give a practical illustration how to make high-priced 
land pay near a city or village, to show in a few lines here, (we shall give more ex- 
tended instructions in our new work promised in the preface.) 

WHAT WE WOULD DO WITH TEN ACRES. 

Our first effort would be to have it thoroughly enriched, plowed well and deep, 
following with a subsoil plow and loosening up the ground to a depth of 20 inches. 
We should then set the whole to Apples, Pears, and Plums, except about two acres 
for Grapes, that should not be shaded. The Pears and Plums set 18 feet apart each 
way, and Apples 30 feet, with Peach trees half way between the Apple trees each 
way, these being out of the way by the time the Apples got into full bearing. Two 
acres we should set to Grapes of different sorts, 12 feet each way. In the rows of 
Grapes plant out tomatoes or early potatoes ; between the Grape rows 
garden truck of different sorts can be planted for two years, or Strawberries, — 
the latter in rows 2 feet apart, and the runners kept off. Four acres set to Rasp- 
berries, 3 feet in the row and rows 6 feet apart ; 2 acres to Blackberries and 2 acres to 
Currants and Gooseberries, all 3 feet apart in the row and rows 6 feet apart. Thus 
planted, it brings the trees directly in the rows of Raspberries, Blackberries, &c. 
Between these Raspberries, &c, in the rows, some kind of garden truck can be 
planted one year, while half way between one Strawberry row can be set out, allow- 
ing it to run and form a matted row, giving them the attention described for such 
rows in this pamphlet, each year after fruiting. These directions are intended for 
localities where more land can be had at reasonable rates, so that when the trees 
get so large as to shade the ground, or the Raspberries, &c, full grown so as to 
damage the Strawberries, new plantations can be formed on adjoining land. If the 
land is very high priced, and near some large market where truck and Small Fruits 
pay well, we should not set but an acre or so' of fruit trees, devoting the balance to 
Small Fruit and truck, closely planted, closely pruned, and closely cared for. 

PROFITS OF SMALL FRUITS. 

When properly attended to, and care taken to raise first-class fruit and send it 
into market in fine order, (which is required of any horticultural or agricultural 
products to make them profitable), there is no branch of business t\\n,t pays better 
than the growing of Small Fruits for market, and as to overstocking the market with 
such, it cannot be done. More Profits can be realized from ten acres of Small 
Fruits, than from any one hundred acre farm in the country, and that, too, with 
less hard labor. 

We are aware, however, that there have been seasons when ordinary fruit has 
sold low in certain markets. Yet in these very markets and seasons, first-class 
fruit has always sold at high and most profitable rates, — thus showing the great im- 
portance of thorough culture. By " thorough culture," we mean deep, subsoil plow- 



ing, liberal manuring, clean and oft-repeated cultivation, and plenty of mulching, 
and last, but not least, with the Strawberry, growing them in hills — that is, keeping 
oft' all runners. Add to this the great importance of growing the best sorts, even 
if the first cost is considerable higher, and the grower may rely on a ready market, 
at the highest rates, for all he can raise. 

PROTECTION FROM WINDS. 

This is of great importance to secure a good and sure crop of fruit — especially 
Strawberries. Any person may see by passing a field that is protected on the West 
by timber, that the snow will lay like a sheet all over such fields. It needs no argu- 
ment to show that this blanket spread over the surface of the ground protects the 
plants and roots, and adds richness and vitality to the soil. It is a common saying 
that " snow is the poor man's manure." We believe this is so, by its shading the 
surface, and shade, to a proper extent, enriches the soil. We believe it gathers in 
its descent from the atmosphere, and carries to the soil, certain properties that add 
greatly to its richness. These things are not easily explained, and may be ridiculed 
by some ; but practical illustrations abound on every side to prove the truth of our 
statement, and we believe the more our people strip the country of its timber, the 
less and more uncertain will be the crops. We can prove that in localities that have 
a fair proportion of timber, the crops, and especially winter wheat, are more cer- 
tain than in those sections barren of timber. We know of a farm where but one 
row of maple trees were set through the center of the farm, running north and 
south. These trees are now twenty to thirty feet high, and about twenty feet apart. 
They commenced branching out low, and have grown so that the limbs meet. On 
the east of this row of trees snow lays as it falls for twenty or thirty rods, and the 
crops of winter wheat are excellent, while on the west side the snow is generally 
swept off, and the crops poor, notwithstanding the soil is the same. This row of 
trees scatters and breaks the force of the wind so that the snow that falls on the east 
side is not swept oft' thereby. We would therefore advise all parties who are in- 
tending to go into Small Fruits, to choose a locality that is protected on the west. 
If this cannot be had or found, then set a row of trees, or a double row, on the west. 

The best tree we know of for this purpose, on account of its quick, rapid growth, 
dense foliage, and cheapness, is the Scotch Pine. We should set these 10 to 12 feet 
apart, with some rapid growing forest trees half way between. 

RAISING NEW SORTS. 

We are aware there are those " voting-for-Jackson" men that believe we have 
brought Small Fruits to perfection, and that there is no necessity for further effort 
in this line. It will be time to settle down in this belief when we succeed in raising 
a Strawberry equal to the Wilson's Albany in firmness and productiveness on all 
soils ; to the Hooker and Burr's New Pine in deliciousness, and to the Jucunda in size 
and color ; and we will further add, that we will give one thousand dollars for the 
stock of any new sort (if not under 100 plants) that combines the above qualities. 

We believe the time is coming that such a berry will be produced. We want a 
Raspberry, too, equal to the Mammoth Cluster in productiveness, firmness, 
and hardiness ; to the Brinkle's Orange in flavor ; and to the Fastolf in size and 
color ; and also other Small Fruits — Blackberries, Currants, Gooseberries &c, 
with like desirable qualities and characteristics. 

It is but little trouble to those who have the time and taste for such things, to 
grow new seedlings ; besides, there is a great amount of interest and pleasure at- 
tached to it that makes it a very pleasant occupation. The first important point is 
to save the seed at the proper time — that is when the fruit is fully ripe. Allow the 
berries to get dry, and then rub them out of the flesh. Sow them in pots of light, 
rich mould, or in a bed of light earth, in rows 3 or 4 inches apart, in July or Au- 
gust. Press them into the soil with the back of the hoe, and keep the ground regu- 
larly watered. In two to four weeks they will make their appearance. Cover 
through the winter with some coarse evergreen boughs or brush of trees. In the 
spring transplant the proper distance. The second season they will produce fruit. 



STRAWBERRIES. 

There is no fruit that is grown so successfully over so large an extent of country 
— no fruit that adapts itself to so many different soils and climates, and so univers- 
ally relished, as the delicious Strawberry. It does seem very strange to us that so 
many families unnecessarily deprive themselves of this healthy luxury — especially 
those who have plenty of land to plant them on. 

Many arc deterred from planting out a bed, with the false idea that it is too much 
trouble and work. Now, we claim that we can grow a bed on the same piece of 
ground for years, with no more trouble or work each year than so much ground 
planted to potatoes. There are sorts, like the Jenny Lind and Downer, that will 
stand neglect, and yield good crops year after year, on the same ground ; but we do 
not wish to convey the idea that we recommend such culture, but wish to impress it 
on the minds of all, that the better the culture, the better the crop. Remember the 
old adage, "A stitch in time saves nine," and that there is no branch of business 
this applies to more than in the cultivation of this fruit. It is easier to cultivate 
and hoe a plantation four times over, when there is no weeds, than once if weedy j 
therefore hoe soon after setting the plants, and as often as possible afterwards. 

There are sorts that are better adapted to extreme temperature and localities than 
others. We shall endeavor to show the success of each prominent sort in different 
localities, and where each priginated. 

There are many modes of cultivation, each of which have their strong advocates. 
We have heretofore strongly advocated the matted row system, but after careful and 
practical comparisons, we are satisfied that the hill method is the best, one year 
after another. The fruit average double the size — the crop double, and on most soils 
with less labor. In hills, they form such strong, bushy tops, that the fruit and 
blossoms are protected from severe late Spring frosts thereby. Some Springs we 
have had late frosts in May, that nearly ruined our plantations that grew in matted 
rows, while those grown in hills were but slightly damaged, and yielded a very 
heavy crop. Another reason is, that the heavy tops mat down around the crown in 
the Winter, and protect it from the action of the frost, while those grown in the 
matted row form but small tops, and are not thus protected. Again, if the ground 
should be weedy, they are attended to with much less work and care than if allowed 
to throw out runners. The work can nearly all be done with the hoe and cultivator, 
while if in matted rows, it has to be done wtih the fingers, which is very laborious 
indeed. 

The only situations where we can recommend the matted row method, is on land 
that is quite free from weeds, and localities not liable to severe action of frosts in 
Winter or late Spring. 

There are sorts that must be grown in hills to produce well, and none but what do 
better grown thus. 

HAVE STRAWBERRIES CEASED TO BE PROFITABLE ? 

We have read many articles, and had the question often asked us, " Have Straw- 
berries ceased to be profitable? Will they pay at 8 cts. per quart ?" To the first, 
we answer most emphatically, no ; to the last, yes. In taking this position, we do 
not wish to be understood as writing from a stand-point where land is worth $500 to 
$1,000 per acre (and badly "run" at that), manure $2 per cord, and other things in 
proportion ; but rather on land near any of our villages, that can be bought for $80 
to $150 per acre, manure from swamp muck, leaf mould, leached ashes, sods from 
the roadsides and from the villages, to be had for almost the drawing. Still, we 
wish to be understood that Strawberries can be grown on the first named ground at 
even six cents per quart, and pay better than the best crop of potatoes to be found 
about such cities. And if this is so, one can see at a glance how profitable they will 
prove on rich virgin soil, or, in fact, on any soil that will grow good corn or pota- 
toes ; such soil requiring but little, if any, manure, providing the plants are thor- 
oughly worked and well mulched. Some of the most successful cultivators claim 
that they can raise the largest and finest crops and vines on poor soil, if it is only 
kept well worked and mulched, thus showing that it need not necessarily follow 
that Strawberries cannot be made profitable because land is poor. 



We admit that if Strawberries are grown on the " slip-shod" plan, they will not 
really prove profitable. Cannot the same be said of any crop, especially if grown 
on very high priced land. We claim that we can get a far better crop of fruit from 
Strawberry plants than from pig-ioeeds, chick-weeds, and the like, and the more the 
ground is occupied by the first, and the less by the last, the better the crop, and vice 
versa. We cannot " gather grapes of thorns, or figs of thistles." 

One very important fact to be taken into consideration is that it costs no more to 
irrow good and pure varieties than inferior and mixed up sorts ; and second, that it 
costs no more (except in the original plants) to cultivate a row that has been thickly 
set with plants, than one where the plants were set too far apart — the consequence 
being that the first form perfect rows, with the ground fully occupied, with no 
vacancies, while the last are very imperfect and the ground not half occupied — the 
crop on the first being double to triple of the last. 

To illustrate the great importance of setting pure, unmixed sorts : We did not have 
on our place east a year ago last Spring enough AVilsons to set out what we desired 
to, and therefore purchased 20,001) plants of that sort, which were sold to us for the 
Wilson. We soon found that fully one-half to two-thirds were poor, worthless 
sorts. The consequence was we averaged this year about six cents per quart for 
them, and obtained about 40 bushels to the acre ; while from adjoining beds of the 
pure Wilson, we got fully at the rate of 200 bushels to the acre, and averaged 
twelve cents per quart — the first bringing us about $80 per acre, the last eight hun- 
dred dollars per acre. The spurious sorts in the first named were such prodigious 
runners, that they nearly choked out and destroyed the Wilsons — hence the small 
crop and price. Now our expenses of cultivation on both lots were the same, cost 
of marketing, per bushel, the same, and cost of picking more. In fact, it was a 
tedious job to get the first picked at any price. We know of plantations of pure 
and mixed Triomphe de Gands that turned out in the same way. Can any thing 
be plainer than this to show the great importance of having each kind of fruit by 
itself? Do potatoes, apples, or any kind of fruit or vegetables sell as well that are 
mixed up ? Yet hundreds of persons will, when they are setting out Strawber- 
ries, look around to see where they can be got cheap ; and no matter whether the 
Earty has any reputation at stake, there is their place, they think, to 
uy. Probably a difference of $10 to $20 per acre on cost of plants would prove as 
bitter as the experience we had this season. While in New York city, in the early 
part of the Strawberry season last Spring, we could not help but notice the Straw- 
berries that were coming in from Norfolk, Delaware and South Jersey. A great 
share of them were badly mixed of those we saw, and we were informed by a re- 
liable fruit commission firm that such was the case with most they received. We 
noticed quart boxes of unmixed selling for 60 cents per quart, while those that were 
mixed sold for 20 to 30 cents. 

Now nineteen-twentieths of the croakers who are constantly trying to show that 
Strawberries will not pay, are of this class of growers, or else they wish to mo- 
nopolize the business and discourage others from going into it. We could fill this book 
with facts that have come under our notice the past year, of persons in all parts of 
the country that have been very successful, and made enormous sums of money 
from their Strawberries — even in markets where the price was very low ; the secret 
being that they grew the best varieties and large crops from small pieces of ground. 
We consider what one has done hundreds of others can do. 

But to return to the first question — " Have Strawberries ceased to be profitable ?" 
They have, and so has any other crop, providing the raiser does not take enough 
care or interest in them to make them profitable. Suppose a merchant fills his store 
full of goods, and then leaves them to Tom, Dick and Harry to sell and take care of 
— he being around a billiard saloon or tavern half the time. Will he find his busi- 
ness profitable ? Or suppose he pays prodigious rents, expenses, &c., and then has a 
poor lot of unsalable goods ; will he make it pay ? 

All that is necessary to make Strawberries profitable, is to have your soil in good 
order, well manured, deeply plowed, well harrowed, plants well and thickly set in 
the row, and of pure, unmixed sorts. Then keep the ground well stirred with the 
cultivator and hoe, no matter whether there are weeds or not, (and, by the way, we 
believe it is well for us that weeds do grow, for in working the soil to eradicate 
them we keep it mellow and pulverized, so that plants are not destroyed by the 



6 

drouth), and, last but not least, ship them in clean, neat baskets or boxes, and our 
word for it you will find them profitable at even six cents per quart — far more so 
than the best crop of potatoes that can be grown at the highest rates. " Take an 
interest in the business, hate weeds, be up with the lark, and free with elbow 
grease," is our motto. 

TIME TO SET STRAWBERRIES. 

The proper time to set plants is in March, April and May ; and September, Octo- 
ber and November — owing to localities. 

We cannot recommend setting too early in the Fall — as the roots should become 
well matured before being disturbed, especially if they are to be transported. "We 
have had the best success with Fall setting, from plants set in October — not losing 
scarcely a plant. In fact, we have had good success with plants set up to the time 
the ground froze, by merely scattering some coarse litter over the surface before the 
ground thawed out. 

We are often asked the question, " Which is the best time to set — Spring or Fall ?" 
It does seem to us that it must be apparent to every such questioner, that the sooner 
the plants are out, the more roots they form — consequently the greater the crop the 
first bearing season. If set in the Spring, they yield a full crop the next season, 
while if set in the Fall, they yield but a small crop the next season. If the ground 
is not ready in the Spring, we should of course prefer to set in the Fall than to wait 
until the next Spring, as they would yield a small crop the next season, while if set 
in the Spring, they do not yield any fruit to speak of the first season. In fact, it is 
better to pick all blossoms off the first season they are planted, as many young plants 
so exhaust themselves in fruiting that they die out immediately afterwards. This is 
especially the case with the Wilson's Albany. 

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. 

If the ground is sufficiently rich to grow good potatoes or corn, it will grow as 
comparatively good Strawberries. If not in good order, manure thoroughly with 
any well rotted compost. New coarse manures are very risky, especially for light 
soils, for, if the Spring should prove dry, the plants dry out badly. Plow or spade 
deep when the ground is in a dry condition, for if too wet and soggy, it leaves the 
surface stiff and bakey. If convenient, scatter a liberal supply of well rotted com- 
post over the surface, which not only enriches the soil, but acts as a mulch to keep 
the surface moist, and prevent it from " baking." 

As for the soil necessary to grow Strawberries on, it has never been our lot to see 
any that would not grow them, — providing it was sufficiently dry, or could be made 
so by draining, or if vegetable manures were within reach to be had. The same 
can be said of all other kinds of Small Fruits that we have had any experience 
with. We of course will admit that the lighter soils are easier and more economi- 
cally cultivated. The lighter soils, too, will produce earlier and better flavored 
fruit, while the heavier soils will produce later and larger fruit. Elevated soils are 
less liable to be affected by Spring frosts, hence should be selected for the earliest 
Spring fruit — the Strawberry, especially the earliest sorts. South and southeast 
side.hills should be chosen to produce early fruit, and north side-hills, late fruit. 
Thus the season may be extended. 

MANURES. 

Space will not allow us to give any extended remarks on this heading. Rich 
prairie soils we do not consider so strictly necessary to manure, as those of a lighter 
and poorer nature. Of course, the poorer the soil the more manure required, and 
the more thoroughly it should be incorporated into the ground. We would advise 
deep plowing,' — using a subsoil plow, if possible, in all soils where it can be worked. 
We have reference to those subsoil plows that follow the ordinary plow, merely 
loosening the underground, and not throwing it up to the surface. In most cases 
where it has never been used, it will be found as beneficial as a good coating of 
manure ; hence our urging it under this heading. 



The best way of using manure on rich prairie soils, is to scatter it over the sur- 
face after the ground has been plowed, and working it in with the cultivator and 
hoe. By so doing, it prevents the surface from " baking," and keeps it in a loose, 
light condition, hence it does not suffer from the drouth so badly. 

We consider thoroughly decomposed barn-yard manure unexcelled. If not to be 
had in sufficient quantities, mix with it, in alternate layers, muck, leaf mould, sods 
from the roadside and corners of fences, leached ashes, lime, salt, &c. Have the 
whole pile thrown over once or twice, and well mixed together. The value of such 
a compost can be easily seen by scattering a very little among the Strawberry plants, 
or around other Small Fruits. Those parties who wish to go into the Small Fruit 
business, but are deterred by the poor character of their soil, and a supposed lack of 
manure, should read " Ten Acres Enough," and learn what can bo done by any ener- 
getic man. 

Coarse manures should not be used — especially on light, sandy soils. If manures 
are not on hand, or ready for immediate use — that is, for Spring planting — the 
plants can be set, and the manure scattered among them in July or August, with 
very satisfactory results. 

TO GROW LARGE FRUIT. 

Grow in hills. Mulch heavily with straw or hay. Water liberally with liquid 
manure, which can be produced by filling a barrel full of manure and running rain 
water through it. Pick off all but one or two fruit stems, and thin out these, and 
specimens of fruit will be produced that will "astonish the natives," — especially if 
the variety be of the large sorts. 

TO PRODUCE FRUIT LATE IN THE SEASON. 

Pick off all fruit-stems as fast as they make their appearance at the usual time. 
Keep the plants well watered with the liquid manure, and surface shaded with straw 
or hay, and you will be almost certain of a fair crop in September or October. 

MULCHING MATERIAL. 

The best for this purpose is clean rye straw, or hay of any kind, swail grass, corn 
stalks, or crushed sorgum stalks. If these are not to be had, well rotted tan bark, 
sawdust, or planing-mill shavings will answer. If the latter could be thrown in 
heaps, and a little lime scattered through it, and remain thus for a few months 
before using, it makes one of the best mulching material. 

Many parties have tried, with good results, the practice of sowing oats among 
their vines, late enough in the Summer (say July) to prevent them from ripening. 
These fall down through the Winter, and make a fine mulch, evenly distributed over 
the entire surface. 

There is no part of the cultivation of Small Fruits that pays better than mulch- 
ing the vines, for by so doing they will yield fully double the crop, and double the 
size fruit, besides acting as a 

WINTER PROTECTION. 

This has become a necessary practice with those who are having the best success 
in growing Small Fruits. Any of the above material scattered thinly over the sur- 
face, late in the Fall, or early Winter, will prevent the ground from "heaving," 
which is the ruination of many Strawberry plantations that are almost perfection in 
the Fall. Let it be remembered, that the germ of the fruit-buds are formed in th« 
Fall, and consequently, if plants are disturbed by the action of the frosts, the bud 
must be proportionally damaged ; therefore the great importance of preventing this 
" heaving" of the soil. To do this, sudden freezings and thawings of the surface 
mast be guarded against and prevented. This is easily accomplished by merely 
scattering enough mulching over the surface to shade it. 

After Spring opens, it is a good plan to pass over the plantation and loosen up this 
mulching, especially if it be coarse, heavy material, so as to allow a free circulation 
of air to the soil; for we have become satisfied that soil is "soured" by allowing 



8 

such to lay bound close to the surface, and the plantation damaged by such causes. 
Herein is the trouble why many propagators denounce sorgum bagassa. If they 
would stir it up after Spring opens, and draw it away from over the crowns of the 
plants, they would find it one of the best materials for mulching. 

PREPARATION OP PLANTS FOR SETTING. 

When taken up for setting, the ground should be loosened up with a fork, and the 
plants carefully raised with one hand and placed in the other with the roots straight- 
ened out, and the top and runners kept above the hand ; as fast as a handful is taken 
up, press the bunch close and cut off all superfluous leaves and the runners ; then 
place in layers in boxes or baskets. If taken up and kept in this way, one good 
active man will set from 3,000 to 5,000 plants per day, while if thrown in promiscu- 
ously as taken up, it will take at least one-half of a person's time to straighten out 
the roots and pick off runners so that they will be fit to set, and consequently double 
the time and expense is made in setting. Just before setting saturate the plants 
thoroughly with water, or dip them into a " puddle" made of water and clay or 
heavy soil. If kept well saturated with water, however, when set, nearly every 
plant will grow. 

TOOLS FOR WORKING AND SETTING PLANTS. 

Marking Cord. — We prefer a cord about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, 
and sixteen rods long ; material — Russia hemp. 

Stakes — 3 feet long and 2 inches diameter, sharpened at one end, made of some 
strong, hard wood. 

Beatles — Made of some hard, knotty stick, to drive down the stake with. 

Reel — made inside of a small box, to wind the cord on. 

Dibbles. — Take a hard wood stick, nine inches long, two to two and one-half 
inches wide, three-quarters of an inch thick, commence about two-thirds of the way 
up, and taper it down all around smoothly to a point at the lower end ; also, taper 
it evenly towards the upper or handle end, so that said end will be about one inch 
across. On this fasten a handle, by running a screw through it into the first de- 
scribed stick. For extensive planting in heavy or gravelly soil, a steel dibble made 
the same shape, only being but about a quarter of an inch thick, and fastened to a 
wooden handle, will be found to be much better and not so liable to get blunt at the 
point. Many, however, prefer an ordinary strong steel garden trowel to either. 

Hoes. — The best steel hoes, with a socket for the handle to enter, and the socket 
and hoe one piece of iron. For working among Strawberries a flat-tined steel fork 
hoe is our main dependence. It is far superior to the ordinary hoe, as it loosens up 
the soil deeper and more thoroughly. 

Cultivators — We prefer those that have fine teeth, and do not throw the dirt 
up into ridges. A very good implement for stirring up the soil is a Cultivator made 
with ordinary harrow teeth. One of the best implements we have ever used is the 
" Knox Horse Hoe," made in Boston. It can be so arranged as to throw the dirt 
in or outside of the Cultivator. 

Plows. — There are so many patterns and so many tastes and preferences that we 
will not name any particular one. Our main advice in this line is to either get one 
with a sub-soil attachment or a sub-soil plow separately. There is no implement the 
fruit grower can have that will pay better than a sub-soil plow. 

THE HILL SYSTEM. 

For garden culture, set one foot by eighteen inches or two feet, and for field cul- 
ture, two to two and a half feet each way, or rows two and a half or three feet apart % 
and one foot apart in the row, thus giving a chance to do nearly all the work with 
a fine tooth narrow cultivator or harrow. Have the " lands" or rows for field cul- 
ture about 16 rods long. 



Draw a cord where the rows are intended, press it to the ground with the back of 
the hoe, or by walking on it, which leaves a plain mark to set the plants by, or in 
extensive planting, if the ground is free from sod or other incumbrance, and in good 
order, plow out straight furrows the proper distance apart, and set the plants in 
these as fast as one person can straighten and drop the roots, by placing the plant 
against the perpendicular side of the furrow with one hand and drawing in dirt up 
to the top of the crown with the other. To set by the above marks use a dibble or 
trowel. 

Thrust the dibble in the length of the roots— working it back and forth, so that 
the hole will not fill in when the dibble is withdrawn. Straighten the roots out 
and place them in up to the crown of the plants, spreading the roots out fan shape 
the width of the hole, and running the dibble down near to it, and pressing the dirt 
up closely to the plant, filling up the last hole made by the dibble when it is withdrawn. 
If it is a small lot of some valuable high priced sort, and it should be dry, pour a little 
water in the hole with the roots and fill in quickly with dirt, and shade for a day 
or two after setting — although if roots are thoroughly saturated or " puddled" just 
before setting, there will not be any failures to speak of. Keep well cultivated and 
hoed, and the runners cut oft". The latter can be done with a knife, shears, or a 
sharp wheel attached to the side of the cultivator. Just before Winter sets in cover 
the beds slightly with the mulching. This can be left on in the Spring until after 
the fruiting season, if the ground should not be too weedy, merely loosening up the 
surface with a fork hoe, and if too foul, it is better to give the plantation one 
thorough cleaning the last of April, or just before they blossom. This can be done 
by drawing the mulching into every alternate row, and after cultivating these, 
draw it alHnto the rows cleaned, and clean out the balance, after which scatter the 
mulch evenly around the plants. 

The mulching is not only a protection to the plants through the "Winter, but it 
keeps the fruit clean and finer in every respect. In localities where snow lays over 
the surface most of the Winter and the ground does not " heave," mulching is not 
so necessary, or if used, need not be put on so liberally. 

Another very good protection to the roots is to plow dirt up to the plants, leaving 
a trench half way between and drawing the same away early in the Spring. It is 
also necessary to draw a little more dirt around the crown each year after fruiting 
season, as the new roots form above the old crown. If, however, plenty of compost 
is added around the plants each year after fruiting, it answers for this purpose, be- 
sides stimulating them into an immediate luxuriant growth. Plantations kept in 
this way, will average one quart to the hill, while if even ordinary cultivation is 
given, good bearing sorts will average half that amount. One good thorough 
cleaning or forking in April or May is all that is necessary until after fruiting sea- 
eon. As soon as they are through bearing, scatter a liberal quantity of rotted 
compost over the surface, spade or plow between the rows as deep as possible, loos- 
ening it up in the rows between the plants with a fork-hoe and cut oft' all runners 
that are starting, and the entire top of the plant close to the crown. The latter is a 
very essential point, for if the old top is allowed to remain on, the plant will remain 
in a dormant state for weeks, forming no new roots, while if cut off, they start out 
new roots immediately, and by Pall form an immense fibrous root and large, luxuri- 
ant top. Keep the ground well worked, runners cut off, and mulched, as before 
described. 

Here we might say, that for plowing between the rows after they are through 
bearing, the sub-soil plow will be found the best, as it does not ridge up the land. 
When the other plow is used, the ground can be leveled down with the drag tooth 
cultivator. 

THE MATTED, OR ALTERNATE ROW SYSTEM. 

For garden culture, set one foot in the row, and rows two feet apart, and for field 
culture, rows three and a half or four feet apart. Mark out and set plants as before 
described. Keep clean with the fork and cultivator. Train the runners along the 
row as they grow out, and they will soon form thick, matted rows, about one foot 
to eighteen inches in width. This can be done by keeping the cultivator going 
through them quite often, harrowing it down as the rows widen out with plants. 



10 

Before Winter sets in, scatter a liberal quantity of rotted compost among the vines, 
thereby protecting them from freezing, enriching the surface, and acting as a fine 
mulch among the vines the coming season. "Work among them thoroughly with 
the fork and cultivator just about the time they commence to blossom. As soon as 
they are through fruiting, plow or spade between the rows, turning the edges of the 
rows under, leaving them about six inches in width. Level the ground down and 
work the rows out clean, tearing out some of the plants if they should be matted 
too thickly together. 

A light two-horse harrow answers for this purpose well, as it scratches the ground 
nicely among the plants, by passing over the plantation across the rows. By this 
operation the fresh ground gets drawn in among the plants. 

Scatter manure among them, keep clean, and take same care as before described. 
After these rows have occupied the same place for three or four years, the runners 
can be allowed to run from the rows and fill up every row, allowing all to fruit, and 
after fruiting, plow the space occupied by the old rows under, leaving about a foot 
in width of the new plants ; allow these to fruit, and take the same care as before 
described. If the ground is kept well manured and clean, they can occupy the 
same ground for years. 

HILL AND ROW SYSTEM. 

We have noticed for the past few years that when runners had been kept off from 
plants until quite late in the season, and then allowing a few to grow and take root, 
that the young plants formed from such were very strong, and bore large crops of 
fruit the following season. This can be accounted for from the fact of the plant 
having the full strength of its root, obtained a strong, full growth, and where a few 
runners were allowed to grow and root, they partook of the strength and vigor of 
the parent plant. 

We have therefore satisfied ourselves from experiments, that this is one of the 
best, if not the best, methods of growing Strawberries, both for home use and mar- 
ket. By thus keeping the runners off until late in the season, it gives a chance to 
work the rows out clean with cultivator and hoe up to the time when weeds stop 
growing, or if a few do grow they cannot ripen their seed. Then, by allowing the 
runners to grow, and passing through occasionally with the cultivator to keep them 
running in the row, and the ground stirred up, just enough plants will form between 
the original or parent plants to form a matted narrow row. These rows will yield 
as fine fruit as those kept strictly in hills, while at the same time, by hoeing out the 
old plants after fruiting season, and leaving a new plant between each old original 
plant, the bed is as good as new each year, — in fact, we believe it to be one of the 
best " renewal" systems that can be practiced, and the only one that will produce 
large crops of large fruit every season. 

MATTED HILL OR STOOLING OUT SYSTEM. 

This is practiced by many. Set one strong plant, or if small, two plants, three 
feet each way. Keep the cultivator going both ways, and the plant clean from 
weeds. As they throw out runners keep the cultivator going through them as often 
as possible both ways, having it set so that the two hind teeth will be about two feet 
in width. In this way the runners will be thrown around so as to set the plants 
close in around the original plant, and by this means soon forming a matted hill ; 
after they have set sufficiently thick, the cultivator can be narrowed down to about 
18 inches in width, and kept this width the rest of the season, keeping it going 
through both ways as often as possible, until the ground freezes. Then mulch as 
before described. Many cultivators advocate and prefer the 

ANNUAL SYSTEM. 

Which is to set the plants 1 foot by 31- or 4 feet. Keep well cultivated the first 
year, same manner as described for the " matted row" system. Allow them to bear 
the second season, or first fruiting season, and then plow under. If a person has 
plenty of land this is a very good plan. In doing so, however, new beds must be 



11 

set every Spring. If the plantation gets foul or weedy, it is no more trouble to set 
a new plantation than to clean out the old one. If, however, plenty of manure is to 
be had, and one has but a few acres of land, wo would advise keeping the same 
plantation in fruiting for at least. 3 or 4 years. Another manner of growing them 
in many parts of the country and advocated by many, we must truthfully call the 

SLIP SHOD SYSTEM. 

This is to plant out, cultivate and hoe for once or twice, and then " let them run," 
covering the entire surface with plants and weeds. If there is danger of too many 
weeds going to seed they pass over and mow them down. Otbcrs let them get as 
weedy as they will and then burn over the plantation after they get ripe, which we 
think is preferable. After they are through fruiting a plow is run through the 
plantation every 3 or 4 feet both ways, and the ground all harrowed over. They 
are then allowed to run, and the same care taken as before described. Of course 
the more manure they can have scattered among them the better they do, and the 
longer they can occupy the same ground. We would not advise this plan, but still, 
when help is scarce and high, it is sometimes a necessity. When this system is 
practiced, we would advise a liberal quantity of mulching to be scattered among the 
plants every Fall. 

HILL AND MATTED ROW SYSTEM. 

After growing them in hills, as before described, for two or three years, — or until 
they commence to fail in bearing large crops, — they can be allowed to run, and 
form matted rows. Some varieties, like the Wilson's Albany, will only bear two 
or three good crops, in hills, when they must be allowed to run. Other sorts, like 
the Triomph de Gand, will yield large crops for a number of years in succession, if 
kept in hills. 

GROWING STRAWBERRIES AMONG RASPBERRIES, 
BLACKBERRIES, &c. 

When these are grown in hills both ways, Strawberries can be sot half way be- 
tween, each way, and kept in " hills" or " matted hills," as before described. When 
the Raspberries, &c., are grown in rows, Strawberries can be set half way between 
the rows, and grown in matted rows for two seasons, or until the Raspberries, 
Blackberries, Gooseberries, or whatever they may be, get so large as to make it im- 
possible to work them out with the Strawberries among them. 

VARIETIES. 

Those marked with an (H,) are perfect blossoms, or Hermaphrodite, and those 
with a (P,) imperfect blossoms, or Pistillates ; the former producing full crops by 
themselves, while the latter requires every fifth or sixth row of the former planted 
among them as a fertilizer. 

Jenny Lind, (H) — One of our old, standard, early sorts ; succeeds well in hills 
or rows. Color light scarlet ; shape conical ; fine flavor ; size medium, and very uni- 
form. Originated in Massachusetts. 

Downer's Prolific, (H) — Yields tbe bulk of its crop early, when fruit sells 
for very high prices, and with us, one year after another, as great a bearer as any 
of our old tried sorts, and its extreme hardiness makes it a very remunerative sort 
indeed. It has received the highest number of votes in many societies, as being the 
most profitable market sort, and this, too, with the Wilson's Albany as one of its 
competitors. In rows, it yields as good crops as any sort ; but in hills the crop is 
enormous, and fruit double the size. Color light scarlet ; shape nearly round ; flavor 
fair ; size large, and a certain yielder every year. Originated in Southern Ken- 
tucky, and succeeds equally well ia the most Northern or Southern latitude. 



12 

French, (H) — Another very early sort. Better to be grown in hills, and grown 
thus forms enormous crowns — the hills averaging a foot across the top, and conse- 
quently yielding very large crops, all of which are picked early and in a few days' 
time, thereby making it a very valuable market sort. Fruit beautiful scarlet ; flavor 
very delicious ; large size, and uniformly so. Originated in New Jersey, and proves 
extremely hardy wherever tried. 

Early Washington, (H) — An old well known early sort. In many localities 
proves very profitable as a market fruit, on account of its hardiness, earliness, and 
great bearing qualities. Fruit medium size ; flavor fair ; color orange scarlet ; 
round and uniform. 

Ida, (P) — This sort is receiving universal praise by all who have fruited it. 
With us, the past season, it yielded fully equal to any other sort, and we do not 
hesitate to recommend it as one of the most profitable varieties on our grounds. 
The plant is very strong and hardy, of rapid and certain growth, bears an immense 
crop on strong footstalks ; fruit of medium uniform size, and brilliant scarlet color. 
Kipens with the earliest, and in regular succession for twenty-five days. 

Metcalf 's Early, (H) — Claimed by its originator and original disseminators 
as being very early, and yielding a large crop in a few days' time. Originated at 
Niles, Mich. 

New Jersey Scarlet, (H) — This variety stands very high, on account of 
yielding the bulk of its fine fruit very early and in a tew days' time, thus making 
it a very valuable acquisition as a profitable market fruit. 

The above seven sorts are all early. 

Wilson's Albany, (H) — Too well known to require any description. Yields 
enormous crops everywhere. A week later than either of the above. This sort is 
badly mixed throughout the country, there being but very few plantations but what 
have more or less spurious plants mixed in. Hence great care should be taken to 
get genuine plants. Succeeds well in hills or rows. Originated at Albany, N. Y. 

Triomphe de Gand, (H) — On a heavy soil, with rich cultivation, and grown 
only in hills, this proves a fine sort. Fruit large ; color light scarlet ; shape cox- 
comb and inclined to " sport ; flavor delicious, and fruits late. Foreign. 

Hooker, (H) — One of our favorite sorts for table use, on account of its rich, 
delicious, aromatic flavor. Resembles the Jenny Lind, but darker crimson, and 
later. Should be in every assortment for home use. Originated at Rochester, N. Y. 

Crimson Cone, or Scotch Pine Apple, (P)— A very handsome, dark, 
conical fruit. Flavor good ; size medium ; shape long and conical, and on account 
of its lateness and good canning qualities, and also beautiful appearance on the table, 
very desirable. 

Feast's Fillmore, (P) — A very popular sort in many localities. With us it 
yields very fair crops of most delicious fruit. It must be grown only in hills to 
produce well. Fruit when ripe nearly as black as the Black Tartarian Cherry ; size 
large and very uniform, with a peculiar delicious aromatic flavor, highly perfumed. 
Originated in Maryland, and gives good satisfaction wherever tried. Medium to late. 

Great Austin's Shaker, (H)— The peculiarity of this variety is its very large 
and uniform size, and beautiful light orange color. It produces well in hills or 
rows. Originated with the "Shakers," near Albany, N. Y., and succeeds well 
wherever it has been tried. 

Russell's' Prolific, (P) — A very profitable sort in many localities. Where it 
does succeed, it gives the highest satisfaction. They shculd have every 4th to 6th 
row planted with some late staminate sort, like the Jucunda, Triomphe de Gand, 
Golden Queen, Hooker or Shaker, on account of their being such late blossomers 
themselves, and requiring thorough fertilizing. Fruit very large ; nearly round ; 
surface somewhat irregular ; color bright crimson ; fine grained, with a rich sub-acid 
flavor. Originated in N. Y. State. Season medium to late. 



13 

Buffalo, (P)— Claimed by many as being identical with the McAvoy's Superior, 
and as stronly denied by others. Our opinion is that they are so nearly identical 
that there is no necessity for growing both. "We pronounce it, however, a very ex- 
cellent variety. Fruit uniformly largo ; color dark crimson ; flesh red ; solid core 
and very juicy ; sub-acid, with a sweet aromatic flavor. Yields well, and very 
hardy. Succeeds in either rows or hills, in all sections where tried. 

Green Prolific.— Still another season's trial with this truly fine and valua- 
ble sort has attached us the more strongly to it. We notice that a large share of 
our best and most reliable fruit men speak in the most flattering terms of its high 
value ; and what is still more significant, it has received general praise by every Fruit 
Association that we have seen any notice of. 

Of all the tried sorts on our grounds, we are satisfied this has proved one of the 
most valuable, on account of its extreme hardiness, both through the coldest and 
most changeable Winters, and dryest and hottest Summers, and its wonderful bear- 
ing qualities every year. We have sent out no sort for the past three seasons that 
we have received more high and flattering testimonials from than this, and this, too, 
from nearly every State in the Union. They yield good crops in rows, but fully 
triple grown in hills. It forms one of the most astonishing hills we ever saw. 
Plant of a very dark green — hence its name. It was originated by Seth Boydan, of 
New Jersey, who has grown within the past few years over twelve thousand seedlings 
— including the famous Agriculturist, and he pronounces the Green Prolific the best 
of all. Dr. Trimble and Francis Brill, of N. J., speak of it as the best tried sort. 
Fruit large size and very uniform, there being scarcely no small berries among 
them. Shape round ; color beautiful orange scarlet ; fair flavor, and grows well up 
from the ground. It is pronounced by some a pistillate, but we consider it suffi- 
ciently supplied with stamens for a self-fertilizer ; still, it might be well to plant 
every fifth or sixth row with the Wilson, Downer, or some other fertilizing sort. We 
earnestly advise all persons who have not this sort to plant them, knowing from our 
own experience, and testimonials from others in all parts of the country, that it 
will give satisfaction in every State of the Union. Season medium to late. 

Agriculturist, (H) — Where this variety succeeds it gives the best satisfaction. 
Like the Green Prolific and French, it forms enormous "stools," the Wilson being 
a pigmy to it. Fruit large size, conical, and somewhat flattened ; dark crimson, 
firm, and of the finest flavor. Originated in New Jersey. 

Brooklyn Scarlet, (H)— We consider this the best of the three Tribune sorts. 
Good size ; bright scarlet, with a long neck ; flavor delicious and highly perfumed ; 
plant very strong, hardy and vigorous. 

Lenning's White, (H) — The finest " white" variety grown. Large size ; 
perfectly round ; white, with a rich delicate blush on one side ; extremely high 
flavored and highly perfumed. It is one of the most delicious flavored Strawberries 
we have ever tasted, and should be found in every assortment. The August No. of 
the " Agriculturist" says : "It is really a fine fruit, very productive, and the best of 
all the White Strawberries." The plant is a strong, vigorous grower, resembling 
the Wilson's Albany. 

Jucunda, (H) — Misnamed by many "Knox's 700." We have had plants that 
came direct from Knox's ground, and the Jucunda from Hoag and others, and we 
defy any person to show the least difference in them. 

We can only say that we have never grown a Strawberry that run so uniformly 
large, and of such a beautiful scarlet waxen color, as this variety. We will 
say that when it first blossomed we thought it had been overpraised ; but when 
we noticed that every blossom formed fruit, and every berry was large — very 
large, we changed our minds, and became satisfied that it would prove one of the 
most profitable market fruits on our grounds. The fruit keeps large up to the 
very last picking. It succeeds best on heavy rich loom ; if not rich, it must be 
made so with a liberal coating of well rotted manure. It should be grown only 
in hills to produce full crops. Season medium to late. 



14 

Golden Queen, (H) — Claimed by some as the Trollope's Victoria. We have 
picked fruit, twenty of which would fill a quart measure, and picked as they 
run, the average was not over fifty. Being such fine yielders, and such large, beau- 
tiful fruit, and yielding so very late in the season, makes them one of the most 
valuable and desirable sorts. 

Perry's Seedling. — We have not fruited this variety, only on Spring set 
plants. It comes to us from its originators, Geo. Perry & Son, of Conn., with the 
most flattering recommendations. What we have seen of the plant and the fruit 
borne on Spring set plants, we are very favorably impressed in its favor, and would 
advise all to try it. 

Durand's Seedling. — Large, oblong and flattened ; scarlet ; firm and of good 
flavor. New, and is being highly extolled. 

Barnes' Mammoth, (H) — We noticed this variety made quite a sensation in 
New York the past season, bringing the highest market prices. We do not wonder 
at it, if we are to judge by the fruit produced on our Spring set plants, for we cer- 
tainly never saw larger or finer specimens on young plants. The surface is as firm 
as the Wilson's Albany, color about the same, much larger size, and flavor spicy and 
rich. We regard it as one of our most promising new sorts — especially for market 
purposes. 

Dr. Nicaise, (H)— Fruit grown with us on Spring set plants were very large. 
We herewith give Gould Bros, testimonial : 

" The fruit is of enormous size, berries having been picked this season (from 
plants set last September) that measured 6£ inches in circumference and weighing 
from 1-J- to If ounces. It is early, of a bright red color, very glossy, flesh white and 
of the first quality. In Europe it is considered one of their finest varieties." 

Napoleon III., (EE) — Fruit is large to very large, flattened, varying from oval 
to coxcomb shaped ; color handsome rosy-red, shading to darker red in the sun, 
and waxy blush in the shade ; flesh of snowy whiteness, firm, and of sprightly, high 
flavor, with a delicate aroma ; the plant is vigorous and healthy, with large dark 
green foliage, which endures the sun well, and is very productive. It is claimed by 
many that it is one of the best berries for American culture. We quote the follow- 
ing testimonials : 

Charles Downing, Esq., Newburgh, N. Y., writes : 

" Napoleon III. Strawberry has succeeded well with me, and I consider it a good 
variety for the amateur and family use. The plant is vigorous, productive, and so 
far has proved hardy ; the flavor is excellent ; compared with Triomphe de Gand it 
is not so rich, but sweeter." 

H. E. Hooker, Esq., ex-President of " The Western New York Horticultural 
Society," says : 

" It is very large, vigorous, productive, and of as good, perhaps better flavor than 
Triomphe de Gand. 1 was favorably impressed with it, and thought it worthy of 
trial — one of the finest large Strawberries." 

Thomas Meehan, Esq., Editor of the " Gardener's Monthly," in noticing the 
variety in his August number, 1866, says : 

" This is one of the most distinct fruits we know, and one of the best in many 
respects. It is larger than any of the others named," (Jucunda, La Constante, 
Marguerite, and some other choice varieties with which he is comparing it.) " It 
is very variable in form, some nearly round, others oval, some coxcomby, and 
others triangular and irregular. The color light red, with a pinky tinge, seeds 
small and numerous, not very deeply set ; flesh a snowy whiteness ; flavor equal to 
any we have named except Marguerite. If this should prove a regular and abund- 
ant bearer, well adapted to most soils and situations, it would be a valuable kind." 

Michigan Seedling. — Our friend B. Hathaway, of Michigan, has for years 
been growing and experimenting with new sorts, and has succeeded in producing 
some extraordinary fine varieties, probably the best of which is his " Michigan 
Seedling." The plants we received from him of this sort have that peculiar lustre 
and strength or stockiness of the Wilson's Albany, that indicate productiveness and 



15 

hardiness. lie sends us the following description : " Best market sort to succeed 
the Wilson ; a week to ten days later ; keeps better, more uniform in size and firmer 
fruit. For hardiness, vigor, productiveness, and long keeping qualities, it has no 
equal. Average product of well established beds, 4 quarts to 3 hills ; picked 3 quarts 
from 2 hills 4th of July." 

Boydan's No. 30.— A new seedling of Seth Boydfin's, the originator of the 
famous Green Prolific. The highest recommendation that can be given to it is that 
it is superior to that well-proved, reliable sort in every respect. A friend of ours 
who saw it in New Jersey the past season, says that it was the most promising new 
sort he had seen for years. 

Kramer's Seedling.— W. W. Beebee, Secretary of the Iowa State Horticul- 
tural Society, and first disseminator of this sort, says of it : 

" A seedling of the Wilson's, ripening at same time, and originated near this 
city in '63 — has no equal as a producer and multiplier. The original plant bore 22 
good sized berries in eleven months, from the seed, and in '07 one plant, with run- 
ners kept cut, was found to contain twenty-four good foot-stalks, well set with fruit. 

" Its productive powers are such that where its known parent will be run out by 
grass and weeds, the Kramer will run in, take entire possession, starve out all 
weeds, luxuriate on high or low grounds, and yield immense crops from same bed 
for many years. An old bed of twenty-six square rods — weedless and unweeded for 
two years, and thought worthless last fall for future fruiting — unprotected in our 
last severe and snowless Winter, — on 1st of May last was one matted mass of new, 
even-sized plants ; and, in this poor Strawberry season, that bed produced $200 
worth of the choicest berries. 

" Mr. Kramer, the originator, has never given his plants any winter protection — 
deeming it entirely unnecessary. 

" The fruit is very perfect in form, fully equal to Hovey's, or an average of Wil- 
son's in size — seeds very small, of dark color, sparsely and equally diffused over the 
entire berry, and are neatly set in slightly sunken cavities. In sweetness and rich- 
ness of flavor, and in strong wild Strawberry aroma, it is unrivalled — selling 
readily in our market for 30 cents per quart, while the Wilson's and others would 
only bring 15 to 20 cents." 

Perpetual Pine, (Gloede)— This is claimed to be a real perpetual Strawberry. 
It bears a fine Spring crop, and also keeps up fruiting late in the Autumn. 

Nieanor.— This is the new seedling of Ellwanger & Barry, and on account of the 
high character of that firm, and their oxon personal endorsement of its merits, and 
the description given it by Elliott, we have the highest expectation and confidence 
in its value. Below we insert Ellwanger & Barry's description : 

" Having fruited it for six years, we pronounce it a decided acquisition to the list 
of Market Strawberries. Plant very hardy and vigorous, surpassing, in quantity of 
fruit and hardiness of vine, any other variety we have ever tasted. It commences 
to ripen a few days before the Early Scarlet, and continues on up to the very latest; 
thus making it profitable at both ends of the season. Fruit from one to one and a 
quarter inches in diameter, very regular and uniform in size, roundish conical, 
bright scarlet, and more firm and not so acid as Wilson." 

Also Elliot's description, as copied from the September (1867) No. of the " Hor- 
ticulturist :" 

" Leaf large, broad, oval, of a deep, dark pea-green color, and deeply serrated. 
Foot-stalks long and strong, carrying the foliage very erect and high. Fruit 
medium, or above, in size, or from one to one and a quarter inch in diameter, regu- 
lar and even rounded coxcomb form ; surface glossy, firm, bright, deep scarlet 
red ; seeds dark colored, moderately imbedded ; flesh reddish, rich, sweet and high 
flavored ; truss with long foot-stalks, and usually from eighteen to twenty-four 
berries on a truss. Flowers very perfect, setting every berry without a failure. As 
a market berry, while it is not perhaps any larger than the Wilson, it is more uni- 
form in size, ripens more gradually, and carries equally as well, if not better. As a 
vine, it is among the most hardy, having very long, deep and strong roots, and en- 
during the changes of Summer and Winter with impunity." 



16 

Charles Downing, (H) — A seedling from Downer's Prolific, and claimed by 
all who have fruited it to be superior to that well known reliable sort. Originated 
with Downer, of Kentucky. We are certainly highly pleased with it, from what 
we can judge of Spring set plants, and have great confidence in its value. If it 
only proves as reliable and substantial, in comparison to the rest of the Strawberry 
family, as the Pomologist and Horticulturist whom it is named after, stands among 
men, it will be all that can be desired in a Strawberry. 

Eomeyn's Seedling, (H) — Perhaps there has been no new sort introduced 
that has attracted so great share of attention as this. We have only fruited it on 
Spring set plants, but this was sufficient to impress us very stronly as to its great 
value. It might be sufficient to show its character by stating that it is claimed to be 
equal in every respect to the TriomphedeGand, and far more productive on all soils. 

Joseph Foster writes us : "It has such an immense root, and reaches down so 
deep, the drouth does not affect it in the bearing season, as it does other plants. We 
are growing it on different soils, and it succeeds equally well on all. We have 
plants that are five years old, that have borne a fine crop of berries and runners 
every year, and they are finer this year than ever." Their circular also says : 
" This Seedling is a most decided acquisition to the Strawberry family, being large 
size, perfectly solid, very fine flavor, more spicy than the Triomphe de Gand, fine 
bright red color, and a very prolific bearer. The plants are vigorous growers and 
most hardy — holding their foliage throughout the picking season, and do not winter- 
kill. Two hundred quarts have been taken from 112 plants, and two quarts and a 
half from one plant at two pickings — the last being on the morning of the 9th of 
July. The fruit-stems taken from a single plant, and exhibited at the New York 
Institute, in June, numbered six hundred -perfect sets. It was awarded a special 
prize for flavor, at the New York Agricultural exhibition. Comes into bearing 
very late— -two weeks after the Wilson." 

J. S. Nedham, of Mass., says of this sort : " Last year I purchased some plants 
originating with Mr. Wm. H. Romeyn, called " Romeyn's Seedling." 1 had great 
faith in them at the time, because of the soil in which they originated being calca- 
reo-silicious, adapting the plants to almost any soils, excepting perhaps pure sand. I 
understand it to be a double cross seedling from the Triomphe de Gand and Wilson, 
and Austin. The plants are very vigorous and hold their foliage through the pick- 
in<»- season. The fruit buds set deep in the crown, better protecting itself from 
winter-killing. The runners are long, hugging the ground, and rooting their new 
plants from ten to twenty inches from the parent plant, which is a great advantage 
over the Wilson, which sets its new plants so close to the parent plant that they are 
difficult to remove, and if left to grow are a serious detriment to the main plant. 
The fruit is of large size, between the Wilson and Russell, and more uniform than 
either ; color bright red ; its flavor, to my taste, is quite equal to Walker's Seedling, 
a berry possessing the aroma of the Hamburg grape in union with the delicate per- 
fume of the Strawberry. The calyx or hull stands well off from the berry, making 
it easy to take off, without marring or bruising the fruit. 

" It is said to be a very prolific bearer ; so far with me it supercedes any other 
variety I cultivate in productiveness. If it does as well another year as it has the 
past (and I see no reason why it will not) it must stand beside, if not surpass the 
Wilson in productiveness ; under those circumstances its superior flavor, in connec- 
tion with its ten days longer bearing season, will supplant it in the market." 

Colfax — Some 15 years ago, Hon. Schuyler Colfax introduced into Sout 1 . Bend 
a number of seedling Strawberries that had" been presented to him by an r mateur 
friend. Among them was this sort. We have known it 12 years, and must say, for 
productiveness and hardiness of plant, we have never seen its equal, and we .ire pre- 
pared at any time to pay one hundred dollars for 100 plants of any sort that will 
produce as much fruit from the same sized bed for as many years in succession as this 
sort, for even or one season. 

The same can be said of it as the Kramer, regarding its reproductive powers, and 
running out grass and weeds. Farmers who will not take the care required, that 
most sorts need to produce good crops, may be certain of immense crops from this 
sort, by growing them even as described under heading of " Slip Shod System." 



17 

Plant purplish green and extremely hardy, never having been damaged a particle 
by our coldest and most changeable Winters. It forms astonishing hills— fully double 
the size of the Green Prolific, Agriculturist, or of any sort grown in the same 
specimen bed the past season — over 30 in all. Fruit medium size, round and very 
uniform, hanging in clusters that have been the astonishment of all who have seen 
it ; color very dark crimson ; flavor sub-acid, with a very large percentage of juice. 
Not sufficiently firm to carry to distant markets. It is pronounced a pistillate, but 
our plantations, away from any fertilizing sort, have produced as well as any. 

Peak's Ernpei'Or, (H)— Originated by E. Peak, of South Bend, Ind. Very 
large size ; single specimens often measuring t>£ inches in circumference. Plant 
•quite similar to the Agriculturist in appearance, but is perfectly hardy and does not 
sunburn. Flavor very excellent ; berry firm and very productive. It has been 
fruited four years, and we offer it both for family and market. 

Its season is about with the Wilson, but continues longer in bearing and does not 
so quickly deteriorate in size and quality. Form of berry generally oblong, conical 
and symetrical, occasionally coxcomb, as seen in cut. Color, dark crimson. 



RASPBERRIES. 

This delicious, indispensable and very useful fruit follows immediately after 
Strawberries— in fact, the earlier sorts, such as the Davison's Thornless, Purple 
Cane and Doolittle, commence ripening before the late sorts of Strawberries — such 
as the Green Prolific, Jucunda and Golden Queen — are gone, thus keeping up the 
succession of fruits. The Kaspberry is not only a delicious fruit for the table, but 
is one of the finest for jelly, canning, preserving, &c, besides being a very profitable 
market fruit— the expense of growing, one year after another, being no more than 
the same amount of corn, while the profits will average $200 per acre yearly, with 
ordinary cultivation, — while if extra care and cultivation is given, double that 
amount can be obtained. From two to four dozen of the different sorts will supply 
any ordinary family ; while that number of the " over-bearing" sorts will supply 
the table from the time Blackberries are gone until the ground freezes. 

CULTIVATION. 

There are different methods of cultivation, some using stakes. This we consider 
an expensive and useless practice. Many persons are deterred from setting this — 
one of the most profitable and easily cultivated of fruits, from reading articles and 
books on Small Fruit culture, wherein the necessity of Stakes is laid down. Now, 
we affirm that if the Raspberry is trimmed and grown as we shall describe, there is 
no need whatever of their use. The great fault with most growers is, that they 
allow the main stalk to grow its full height, or at least much longer than it should, 
and even if they do trim them, it is not done until the following Winter or Spring. 
The true way is to trim them while growing. By so doing, and checking the top, 
the roots become larger and the tops branch out more. It is sometimes advisable, 
in Garden Culture, where the bushes have but little room, to tie them up close 
to stakes, or place two stakes, one on each side of the hill, and nail a hoop between 
them, training the bush through the hoop. Or they can be set along in a row, or 
by the fence, and posts three feet high set alongside of them, with a strip nailed on 
top of the posts, and also about two feet from the ground. Still we should dispense 
with all these, by setting the roots two to three feet apart, and never allowing them 
to grow over three feet in height— two feet is still better— and two feet wide, thu« 
forming a perfect hedge ; and on account of such close pruning, they will hang 
literally loaded with the largest size fruit, and growing thus they will be a support 
to each other, so that the strongest winds cannot damage them. 

For field culture there are two distances. Where land is plenty, and help scarce 
and high, we would advise the 



18 

HILL SYSTEM. 

Set the plants six feet each way, setting Strawberries between if desired, as be- 
fore described ; or potatoes can be planted half way between, each way, and when 
dug, the tops thrown around the Raspberries, thus forming a fine mulch. By set- 
ting this distance, nearly all the work can be done by a boy with horse and cultiva- 
tor, — especially if plenty of mulching is thrown around the bushes, which prevents 
weeds from growing. 

Of the Black Cap family, none but young Fall-layered roots should be planted. 
The ground should be marked out shallow with a one horse plow, the proper dis- 
tance apart. Set the plants with the germs up, spreading out the roots and covering 
with about two inches of dirt. If set in the Fall, throw a shovelfull of manure 
over each hill before severe freezing weather comes on, and draw it away lrom over 
the roots in the Spring, and if the surface should be inclined to bake, loosen it up 
down to the roots with a fork hoe, as the germ is very tender and will not come 
through if the ground is too hard. As soon as they sprout in the Spring, work 
them out clean with the cultivator and hoe, and keep them well worked through 
the season. Cut them back the first season, in August or September, to within one 
foot of the crown. This severe pruning must be resorted to the first season, to 
insure a strong, healthy bush afterwards. If not cut back, they are apt to so ex- 
haust themselves in bearing the first season, before they get sufficiently rooted, that 
they get stunted and many die out, while the large share of the balance never make 
healthy or good bearing bushes. Here is where the great mistake is made by many 
planters — to leave too much wood the first year. B^° Be sure and have a strong, 
full groivn root and bush before allowing them to bear heavily, and your plantation 
will last from ten to fifteen years ; while if they are allowed too much top, and to 
over-bear when young, your plantation will ever afterwards be worthless, or at least 
will not pay. We have heard parties boast what a growth their Raspberries made 
the first year, and what a crop they got from that growth ; but they " paid dear for 
the whistle," for their plantation was ruined thereby. 

After the first season they must be cut back in July or August to three feet in 
height, and if the side branches should grow out too spindling, cut these back to 
within a foot of the main stalk. If this cutting back process is thoroughly attended 
to each season, they will grow sufficiently stocky to hold up their fruit without the 
trouble of staking, besides yielding double the amount of fruit. Trim out the old 
wood each Fall, and mulch heavily with any coarse litter. Those who have but 
little land, and wish to make every 'foot ]iay, will do best to set by the 

ROW OR HEDGE SYSTEM. 

Mark out the rows six feet apart, and set the plants two to. three feet apart in the 
row. Keep well cultivated, and when one foot in height pinch off the tops, and as 
side branches grow out, pinch these off also to within afoot of the main stalk. The 
second year, allow the main stalk to get three feet in height before pinching back, 
and the side branches two feet in length. A row thus grown will 
form a perfect hedge, and will yield double the bulk, of larger, finer fruit, than if 
they had been allowed to take their own course. The third year, and each year 
afterwards, they can be allowed to get three feet in height before nipping back. 

If desirable, Strawberries can be grown half way between, as before described. 
If however, this double cropping is practiced, the plants tnust be kept highly fed 
with the best composts. If the ground was not sufficiently enriched before the 
plantation was set, they can be enriched by throwing composts around each- hill. 
The best for this purpose is leaf and rotted wood mould, from the woods. 

VARIETIES. 

Purple Cane. — One of the earliest and undoubtedly most enormous yielder* 
grown. We have letters from the extreme North and South, speaking of it in the 
most flattering terms. Fruit purplish red, medium size, and flavor delicious, being 
the same as the old wild red. It is one of our favorites for table use and jam. It 
yields its fruit early and in a few days' time. 

Note. — The above sort requires age, and to become thoroughly rooted, and must 
be severely cut back the first two years. If this is done, it will yield an immense 
crop every season, for twelve to fifteen years, and prove one of the most reliable and 
desirable soits for family use. 



19 

Doolittle's Black Cap. — Valuable for its earlinesa and hardiness. Double 
the size and yields double tho crop of the common Black Cap. The first year after 
planting it will yield one to two quarts to the bush — after which it yields from four 
to eight quarts When the common wild black is selling for five to ten cents per 
quart, this sells readily for fifteen to twenty-five cents, which shows plainly thte 
comparison of the two sorts. 

Miami Black Cap. — Another year's experience with this sort has proved to 
us that it is superior to the Doolittle except in earliness. It ripens a few days 
later, and keeps in bearing longer — thus keeping up the succession. Size of fruit 
about the same, and not so full of seed. Bush less thorny, large and more stocky ; 
consequently yielding larger crops 

It will be remembcredthat we offered H. H. Doolittle, a year ago last Fall, $200 
if the Seneca Black Cap should prove superior to our Miami in any of the valuable 
qualifications claimed for it. The following is our report : 

" It will be remembered by the readers of the Rural, that I offered last Fall to 
pay H. II. Doolittle $2l)0 if a committee should decide that the Seneca Black Cap 
was superior in any of the qualities claimed for it, to the Miami Black Cap. No 
committee could De got together to decide on it. I, however, must admit that the 
Seneca is much the later berry of the two, and has the highest flavor ; and as these 
were two of the qualities claimed for the Seneca, I feel in honor bound to pay tho 
$2u0. A.. M. PrjKDY." 

A mistake that some persons seem to be laboring under, and that they are trying 
to spread broadcast, and which should be corrected right here, is that we had refer- 
ence to the Mammoth Cluster as the Miami when we made this offer. As we had 
not seen the M. C. in full fruiting at the time we made that offer, any unprejudiced 
person will see we had no reference to it ; hence the absurdity of such a report. We 
referred to the above described Miami, that we have fruited for six years, and to no 
other. 

Seneca Black Cap. — Very similar to the Miami, in color, size and produc- 
tiveness, but fully a week to ten days later, and one of the highest and most 
sprightly flavored berries wo ever tasted. Canned fruit of this sort tasted almost 
•imilar to well ripened Blackberries. 

Davison's Thornless. — Not a thorn on it. This alone is sufficient to make it 
very desirable indeed. When we add to this, however, that it has proven to be a 
week earlier than the Doolittle, fully equal in size of berry, as hardy, and on ac- 
count of being a much stronger bush, a greater yielder, makes it one of the most 
valuable Raspberries grown. Black, very sweet and fine flavored. 

Golden Cap. — The same in size and bearing as the last, except being of a 
beautiful deep golden color, making it very attractive and fine for table use and 
jam. It is also a very profitable variety for market purposes, for, on account of its 
beautiful appearance, it sells for very high prices. It is a rampant grower, and 
must be well cut back. 

Ellisdale. — This is a new sort from Iowa. Similar to the Purple Cane, but 
bush more stocky and fruit larger and firmer. 

Minnesota. — A beautiful large size, and productive, straw-colored berry. Very 
hardy. 

Mammoth Cluster. — Of all the Black Cap family this has proven the most 
wonderful in productiveness, size and uniformity of fruit, stockiness and hardiness 
of plant, of any sort we have ever grown. Such Horticulturists as Chas. Downing, An- 
drew S. Fuller, F. L. Perry, D. D. T. Moore, Wilcox, Turner, O. J. Weeks, H. H. 
Doolittle, and numerous others pronounce it superior and distinct from any black 
sort they ever saw. It is very late in ripening its fruit — the first being picked just 
as the Doolittles are disappearing. Great care should be exercised in obtaining this 
sort, as many are offering a brown Miama, as described in Fuller's work, for it. 

Ohio Everbearing. — The same in size, color and flavor as the Miami. Yields 
a good Summer crop, and a fine crop on the new growth iu the Fall. One of the 
best and most reliable tried " Everbearing" sorts. 



20 

Catawissa. — A most delicious Everbearing sort. Yields a large crop of purplish 
red fruit in the Fall, until the ground freezes. 

Lum's Everbearing Raspberry. — This is a new sort, brought out by H. B. 
Lum, of Ohio, and highly recommended by many of the most reliable and noted 
Horticulturists, among whom is Dr. Warder, of Ohio. The following is its descrip- 
tion : " Plant resembles the common black or Doolittle, but is more stocky and 
not so tall. It never sprouts from the roots, and is increased naturally, only from 
the tips. Fruit large, black and sweet, resembling the Doolittle in size and quality 
at the Summer fruiting, but the berries are much larger in September and October, 
if the weather is favorable, frequently measuring three fourths of an inch in diame- 
ter. Berries commence ripening on tho old wood about the first of July, and the 
crop, according to the size of the plant, will be fully equal to the Doolittli'. Before 
the berries are all gone, new shoots will have pushed out from the base of the plant, 
which will also be loaded with fruit, and thus a succession will be kept up until late 
in the Autumn. Not a few scattered clusters of berries, but whole stools will pre- 
sent long clusters of fruit that will terminate nearly every branch. Plants will 
bear fruit the same season they are set out, but not so profusely as after. If the 
plants are all cut down close to the ground in the Spring, they will produce a larger 
Fall crop, commencing to ripen the last of August. [The same treatment should 
be given the Ohio Everbearing and Catawissa.] For market purposes, I would 
advise this treatment, especially if the peach crop should promise a failure. The 
berries would then command a high price, and the fruit could be raised in localities 
■where the peach almost universally fails. The plant is as hardy as the common 
black. I have never yet failed of getting a good crop of berries every season since 
the variety first fruited. The soil most congenial is a moist loam ; but they will do 
equally well on sand or clay, providing they are mulched in case of severe drouth. 
The soil of course should be rich, when large crops are expected." 

figgf The foregoing sorts are all increased from the tips of the new growth, and 
never " sucker," and none of them require Winter protection. The following are 
increased and propagated from " suckers :" 

Philadelphia. — This has proved perfectly hardy with us, and on account of its 
wonderful bearing qualities, every year, should be found in every family and market 
garden. Our bushes were loaded to the ground the past season, and that, too, after 
one of the most severe Winters, and in the midst of one of the longest drouths we 
have had for years. Fruit medium in size, and of good quality. 

Clark. — Another highly valuable sort, which has proved 'perfectly hardy with 
us. Bush, a strong, rank grower. Fruit, large size, beautiful light scarlet, and of 
the most delicious flavor. Commences to ripen with the earliest, and keeps in bear- 
ing until late in Summer. It will prove one of the most valuable market sorts we 
know of, not only on account of the above valuable qualities, but for its firmnes* 
and great bearing qualities. 

Franconia. — One of the old reliable and profitable sorts. Fruit large, glossy 
scarlet, delicious flavor, and great yielder. Requires protection where the Peach 
does not stand the Winter. 

Kirtland. — A very fine, large red sort. Has proved hardy and very produc- 
tive. Early, and picked in a few days' time, thereby making it one of the most 
profitable of the old tried sorts. 

Brinkle's Orange. — Very large size, and beautiful deep, rich orange color. 
One of the most delicious and attractive berries grown, and should be found in 
every garden, providing plenty of protection is given it in northern latitudes. It 
will pay to grow a few, and bury them entirely with earth through tho Winter. 

Naomi. — This is a new sort that produced a great sensation with all who saw it 
fruiting on our grounds the past season. Fruit very firm ; flavor sprightly and 
most delicious ; shape between conical and oblong ; color bright scarlet ; hardy and 
yields large crops ; canes strong and hardy. 

Riley's Early. — This is another new sort, described by its disseminator as 
follows : "It fruited this season on plants but one year old from root cuttings. It 
proved to be the earliest red Raspberry known, the plants yielding their first picking 
'Several days before Doolittle Black Cap was fit to pick — it being the same day on 



21 

which the last of Che Wilson Strawberry were being picked. It also had one very 
'xcellent market quality, that of solidity ; flavor, color and size were good. It is a 
vigorous grower, though not so vigorous as the Clarke, and stood unprotected the 
past very severe Winter without injury." 

Hudson River Antwerp. — But few sorts have stood the test and proved a 
better or more profitable market sort, in localities that seem to be adapted to it, than 
this old reliable sort. Many " Red Antwerps" have been sent over the country that 
were but little, if any, better than the wild red. We obtained our original stock 
from a reliable party on the Hudson River, and can therefore speak of the true 
sort. Berry huge, conical, dark red, rich and juicy, productive and early ; canes 
9trong and hardy, with a few small purple spines. 



BLACKBERRIES. 

This is another indispensable and very desirable fruit both for the table and mar- 
keting. They are as easily grown as corn, and with but little more expense. It is 
very strange that it is not more extensively grown for market purposes. For the 
last four or five years they have sold readily in every western city for eight to ten 
dollars per bushel, and as the yield will average, every year after they come into 
full bearing, one hundred bushels per acre, the reader can see what enormous profits 
there is to be made by growing them. 

CULTIVATION. 

Plant, if ground is plenty and help scarce, six or seven feet apart each way, or il 
but limited space to spare, two to three feet apart in the row, and rows seven or 
eight feet apart. When help is plenty, we prefer the last distance, for they sustain 
each other, and are not broken down by hard winds. Yet to prevent their being 
thus broken down, when grown in hills, a thorough course of pruning and cutting 
back must be followed. -4s soon as the new growth gets three feet high, nip ofl' the 
extremity. This will cause it to thicken up, and throw out side branches and other 
leaders ; and as these get two feet or more in length, nip off the extremities. If this 
is followed up, the strongest winds will not damage them, while the crop will be 
equal to the highest expectations — at least double the amount and size of berry that 
will grow on bushes that have been allowed to take their own course. We have 
picked from rows of the Lawton, thus trimmed and well cultivated, containing 
forty plants, eight bushels of fruit, while other rows, that were not as well culti- 
vated and trimmed, yielded from three to four bushels. The Blackberry — as well 
as other kinds of Small Fruits— delights in oft-repeated cultivation, and a thorough 
stirring up of the surface. 

Allow but three or four stalks to grow in each hill, hoeing off" all the rest as they 
sprout, for if too many are allowed to sprout over the ground, they are not only in 
the way about picking and working among, but detract from the growth of the 
main stalks. If cut off, the whole strength of the roots go to the main stalks, and 
they yield enormous crops and are easily attended to. Never plow among the roots after 
the second year, and never dig plants from a bearing plantation ; for, in either case, 
the roots get torn and mangled, and will send up an innumerable amount of suckers 
— thereby detracting from the fruit stalks, and soon destroying the plantation for 
fruiting purposes. Mulch very heavy with any coarse litter, each Fall, and trim 
out the old stalks. The mulching will not only keep down weeds, but will keep the 
surface moist, so that the crop will not suffer from drouths. Potatoes, or any plant- 
ed crop, can be put half way between those planted the first distance, for a year or 
two. Those grown by the second distance can have one row of Strawberries grown 
between each row of Blackberries, for two or three years. If they are kept 
thoroughly clean the first year, and well mulched, they will require but very little 
work afterwards. To protect them where they Winter-kill, dig out dirt from one 
side of the root and bend over the bush, and cover a foot or more of the top with dirt. 



22 

VARIETIES. 

Dorchester High Bush.— Yields fine crops of fruit Large size; long, 
glossy black ; very sweet and delicious as soon as it turns black. Valuable for mar- 
keting, on account of being so early and all picked in a few days' time. 

New Rochelle, or Lawton. — A well-known popular sort ; yields enormous 
crops of the largest size fruit. We have picked from rows containing forty plants 
five to eight bushels of fruit, or on an average of two hundred bushels per acre. It 
commences to ripen a week later than the above, and keeps in bearing 4 to (i weeks, 
and always sells readily at the highest quotations, on account of its very large and 
fine appearance. For table use it is indispensable on account of its long continued 
bearing. 

Crystal White. — This truly desirable varictj r originated in Kentucky. It is & 
beautiful, transparent white; very juicy, and has a peculiar and' most delicious 
flavor. The bush is very distinct from any of the black sorts — the .stalk being of a 
pale, yellowish white, and leaf pointed, narrow and small. The gentleman of whom 
we first obtained our stock, wrote us last Fall that they bore with him equal to any 
black variety he had, and sold for double the price in market. 

Kittatinny.— Large to very large ; deep, glossy black ; sweet, rich and excel- 
lent; plant strong, vigorous and very productive: the fruit begins to ripen before 
the Lawton, and continues four or five weeks ; of recent introduction, but promises 
to be exceedingly valuable. In many localities where the Lawton has Winter- 
killed, this variety has not been damaged. Among those who recommend its hardi- 
ness, we notice our friend John J. Thomas — one of the most reliable judges of fruit 
throughout the land. 

Wilson's Early. — Very large, oblong, black; quite firm, sweet, rich, and 
good ; fruit ripens very early, and crop matures within two weeks, rendering it of 
the highest value as an early market variety. 

Missouri Mammoth. — A new variety, introduced by Thompson & Barter, of 
Missouri. Claimed to be enormous in size and productiveness. Very sweet as soon 
as black, with no core, and perfectly hardg — never having been Winter-killed. 



CURRANTS. 

CULTIVATION. 

For garden culture, set plants four feet apart along the fence, and for field culture 
three by six. Manure ground well, and plow or spade deep before setting. Keep 
the branches trimmed up and trained out so as to admit the sun, and have plenty of 
fine mulch scattered over the surface. 

Note. — Many are deterred from setting this fruit on account of the depredation* 
of the " Currant worm." These, we have found, are very easily destroyed by 
sprinkling over the bushes while they are wet, and as soon as the worms are first 
noticed, and once or twice after, a little powdered white helliboie. 

VARIETIES. 

Red Dutch. — A well-known reliable and productive sort, yielding immense 
erops of fruit yearly. 

Cherry. — A very large, glossy red Currant. Fruit of extraordinary size, and 
bears fine crops. 

La Varsailles. — A new and very extraordinary large bunched Currant — the 
bunches measuring three to four inches in length, and fruit of large size. 

White Grape. — The finest White Currant grown. Size large, and of a beau- 
tiful transparent white. Yields large crops. 



23 

GOOSEBERRIES. 

This fruit is gaining in popularity and importance every year. It is being largely 
used in all of our large cities for pies, catsup, jell, canning, &c. They can be 
shipped in bulk in any shaped box that is convenient, and being so wonderfully pro- 
ductive prove very profitable. We hope this fruit may be improved, so that we 
may have as hardy and productive sorts, and as free from mildew, as the Houghton 
Seedling, with the size and llavor of the Smith's White. Cultivation same as the 
Currant. 

VARIETIES. 

Houghton's Seedling. — A vigorous grower ; branches rather slender ; very 
productive; not subject to mildew ; fruit of medium size; skin smooth, pale red ; 
flesh tender and very good. 

Mountain Seedling. — Fruit larger than the above and fully as productive ; 
otherwise similar. 



GRAPES. 

Many are deterred from setting this luscious and healthy fruit by reading long, 
intricate and utterly useless instructions by many amateurs. We affirm that any 
soil that is of a dryish nature, and that will grow good corn or potatoes is good 
enough for Grapes. 

INSTRUCTIONS. 

We recommend two methods for planting. The first is to set the roots six feet 
apart each way, setting a stake six feet high by each root. Cut back to two eyes, 
and as they grow, trim them up to the stakes. If in localities where they are apt 
to be damaged by Winter, take them down and cover them with dirt or any coarse 
litter. Late in Spring take them up and cut back to about three feet in height, and 
tie them up to the stakes. Allow two new vines to grow out near the surface, and 
in the Fall cut out the old vines and the next Spring train up the new vines to the 
stake, cutting them back so that they will be just as high as the stake ; or the old 
vine can be trained up for two or three years and new shoots cut off, until they get 
too large to handle well, when they can be cut off and new vines trained up that 
have been allowed to grow the previous season. When the yearly renewal system 
is practiced, it is a good plan ,to have two stakes, set a foot apart, training the old 
fruiting vines to one, and the new vines as they grow to the other. This is the 
simple method we have practiced with good success, getting extraordinary crops 
yearly. The other method is termed the 

TRELLIS SYSTEM. 

Plant out the sorts twelve feet each way. Put up good strong posts half way be- 
tween one way, six feet high, and fasten on three slats. Allow two vines to grow 
at an angle of about forty-five degrees, fastening them to the trellis with bass bark 
or coarse twine. The next year allow three side shoots to grow each way from the 
main vines and tie along the slats or wire, keeping the balance of the shoots that 
may start trimmed oft' each Fall ; before laying down, cut these side shoots back to 
within one eye of the main vine, and allow the new shoots to grow from these eyes 
the next Spring, training them and tying them in the same way. This can be 
followed until the old three main vines get too old and large, when three new vines 
can be allowed to grow out near the crown to take their place. 

Another very good way is to train two canes in Spring each way to the lower rail 
of a trellis, about one foot from the ground ; allow about three or four laterals to 
grow from each of the two old canes and train them perpendicularly to the upper 
rails of the trellis. These will be your fruiting canes for the next year, and while 
they are fruiting, grow canes to replace them from their base, and renew each year 
by cutting away the upright canes that have fruited. 

Strawberries can be grown between, not setting them nearer than three or four 
feet to the Grapes, and keeping them well supplied with rotted compost. 



24 

We do not claim that these are the best or only plans for growing Grapes, but 
that they are simple and easily carried out, and that by them largo crops of fruit 
can be obtained yearly. Any party wishing for more extensive information as to 
Grape growing, by sending us $1.50 we will havo them forwarded a copy of one of 
the best and most practical Grape books printed, with no charge for our trouble, 
except to enclose two red stamps with the money. 

KEEPING GRAPES. 

There are many sorts, such as the Diana, Isabella, Clinton, &c. , that are easily 
kept through the Winter. One practice has generally been to take a tea chest, place ' 
a layer of Grapes in the bottom, over this spread a newspaper", then anothor layer 
of Grapes, and another paper, and so alternate until the box is filled. Then sot it 
away in a cool, airy place, where the mercury will not run below 30° above. We 
have kept them until February, in this way, by keeping the box in an upper room 
where a stove pipe passed through, being careful when there was an extreme cold 
apell to set the boxes near the pipe and cover them with blankets. 

Another method we have seen highly recommended is to put the Grapes in a light 
jar, and sealing them up tight and putting them away in a dry cellar. 

Still another method is to take a large box and put in the bottom about six inches 
of sawdust or tan-bark. Pack the Grapes as described above, in a box one foot less 
in size. Place this box in the larger one, on to the sawdust or tan-bark, and around 
the sides and over the top pack in with the same material. Set this box away in the 
loft of the barn, and when extreme cold weather sets in cover it over well with hay. 
Grapes havo been kept in this way and taken out in April as fresh and plump as 
when packed away. 

OVERCROPPING. 

A very common fault with many is to allow their vinos to overbear — especially 
when young. We always regard statements of large yields from single vines in the 
same light that we do large crops of Raspberries on young 1 year old plantations, as 
poor management and culture, to bring weakness to the vine, and ultimately result 
in half ripened fruit, mildew, or rot in fruit or leaf. All experienced Grape grow- 
ers admit that plantations receive more damage from this too common practice than 
from all others combined. We believe the same laws that govern life and health 
in the human family, as to over-exhaustion of the system, especially when young, 
bringing about disease and weakness, are equally applicable to the vegetable family. 
Wo therefore claim that all persons who are desirous of receiving the most and 
longest benefit from their Grape vines, must give this matter the proper attention 
He must go over his vineyard and examine the strength of each vine, allowing them 
to bear in proportion as their strength will permit. When in blossom, thin out all 
overloaded vines. Do not allow thom to bear the first year after setting over 3 to 8 
or 10 bunches, owing to variety and strength of vine, and after they get fully grown 
not over 10 to 15 lbs., when the stake system is practiced, or 20 to 30 lbs. to the 
vine on trellises. 

We will close this subject by inserting the following extracts, all of which have 
some valuable suggestions : 

TRAINING THE GRAPE. 

[From the Country Gentleman.] 

We have had occasion formerly to speak of the excellent vineyard management 
of J. W. Clark, of Naples, near the head of Canandaigua Lake. He carefully 
avoids the common error of overcropping, and always regards statements of large 
products as a sure indication of bad management and poor fruit. By planting his 
vines more remotely, and keeping the crop well thinned, he obtains fruit of such 
superior quality that the high price and certainty of market more than overbalance 
the large yield commonly obtained, although double the amount by weight. At the 
same time he does not exhaust his vines, and being more remote they are less, allect- 
ed with mildew. The American Farmer, (Rochester,) in a recent account of this 
vineyard, states that the vines are set fifteen feet apart each way, and are trained on 
trellis made by setting posts 7£ feet apart, using rods or slats 2 by \\ inches and 15 
feet long, the lower one being placed 18 inches from the ground, the upper 6 feet, 



25 

with three fit regular intervals between. The trellis runs north and south. Tho 
trimming is done in March — no Summer pruning after the middle of June. Very 
little fruit is allowed to grow above the third slat, an abundance of room being given 
above the fruit for vine and foliage. Over 25 lbs. of Grapes are not allowed to grow 
on each vine — 20 lbs. is regarded enough. A Grape house is placed in the centre of 
the vineyard. 

On 6 sides of this octagonal house, slats are placed one above another, and the 
picking trays or boxes shoved in on these slats like drawers, until they are packed, 
so as to have as little handling as possible. The placing of these trays i: begun at 
the bottom and extends upwards as the picking season progresses. There is room 
for 12,000 lbs. placed .in this way Adjoining this storing house is a packing room, 
where from 4 to 8 women are employed in putting up boxes for market, commenc- 
ing generally about the 20th of September and continuing into December. The 
prices obtained last year, through the whole season, after paying express charges, 
commission, &c, netted 14 cents per pound delivered at the nearest railway station. 
A part of the crop was sold in the eastern cities at 20, 25 and 31 cents per pound. 

GRAPES ABOUT ROCKS. 

The past season was a very peculiar one — wet and cold ; and the Grapes in many 
localities in the East failed to ripen. While this was generally true, it was rather 
refreshing to observe at one of our horticultural exhibitions, splendid specimens of 
a well-known variety, apparently fully ripe, which we found on inquiry had been 
grown near a ledge of rocks. Some years ago, we visited a place where we observed 
similar results from a similar cause. The whole secret of the thing is that the rocks 
absorb the heat of the sun by day, and give it off at night; keeping the roots of the 
vine warm, and the temperature about it more fully equalized. 

Our attention was once attracted to this same subject by observing that the melon 
vines in a hill around which some stones had been placed were much larger at the 
end of a few weeks than those in the hills that had not been so treated. The same 
principle is observed in cities, where Grape vines are trained in front of brick walls, 
which absorb the heat by day, and reflect it when most needed by the vine. We 
propose to test more fully the value of such treatment for the vine, by placing stones 
about the roots of several bearing vines, in different parts of the vineyard where 
they failed this year to ripen a single Grape. — American Journal of Horticulture. 

GRAPES IN CITY YARDS. 

Under this head, Dr. Charles W. Ridgely writes to The Horticulturist, to say 
that he has twenty-live specimens of the most approved varieties of hardy Grape- 
vines growing in his door yard, which consists of only thirty feet by twenty of clear 
space. He says that in this small patch of ground, after making due concessions to 
domestic claims, he laid out a Grape border forty-five feet-long by three feet wide, 
and another twelve by five. He took up the stiff soil to a depth of two feet and 
mixed with it liberal proportions of old field-sods, street-scrapings, plaster, coal 
ashes, sand, etc. He then procured the choicest vines and planted them in four 
courses on the trellis, one above another, setting up stout posts to support the four 
horizontal bars, the first placed one foot from the ground, and the other above it at 
intervals of two feet. 

Each vine ha3 a space on the trellis nearly ten feet long and two feet in height. 
By careful pruning and pinching, a vine can easily be confined to this space. Should 
a long jointed Isabella or Herbemont aspire to reach its neighbor on the next higher 
course, it may be passed behind the bar occupied by the other, and suffered to spread 
itself a little. The arms may be lengthened by two or three buds each season, but 
this must be done cautiously lest the older spurs should suffer. 

VARIETIES. 

AdirondaC. — Black ; bunches uniform and large ; berries large size, very sweet 
and tender ; ripens about the same time as the Hartford Prolific. 

Clinton. — Bunches small and very compact ; berries small, sprightly ; keeps 
well ; one of the most free, rapid growers and profuse bearers ; ripens earlier than 
the Isabella. 



26 

Concord. — Taking all things into consideration, this is our favorite Grape. It 
yields enormous crops on any soil — even with neglect — of large, glossy, dark purplish 
or blue fruit. Flavor, when fully ripe, we pronounce delicious — as good as the 
famous Delaware in this latitude. Bunches extremely large, and mostly shouldered, 
and very compact; thin skin, and flesh very tender and buttery ■ vine very hardy 
and vigorous. Ilipens in this section from the first to the tenth of September. 

Catawba. — One of the best native Grapes, where the season ie long enough for 
it to ripen perfectly. Bunches medium size and quite regularly formed, with a few 
shoulders ; fruit round, with a reddish or coppery color when ripe ; flesh pulpy, 
with a very sweet, musky flavor. 

Creveliilg. — Another season's trial has satisfied us that this is one of the best 
and most delicious early sorts grown. Bunches about the same size of Hartford 
Prolific, but growing with us more compact ; bla:k, with a bluish bloom ; pulp 
light red, tender, sprightly and rich. It is claimed by some that it should be grown 
near the Concord, Hartford or Isabella, as the flowers are not perfect. 

Delaware. — This fruit has fully maintained its high reputation as one of the 
finest of our native Grapes. The vine is comparatively slender, but grows freely. 
It proves quite hardy in this climate, and ripens two or three weeks before the Isa- 
bella. Bunch small and compact ; berries small, light red, with a violet bloom, — 
beautiful. Sweet, sugary and vinous, with a musky aroma ; equal to the finest 
foreign varieties. It justly claims the best place in every garden. 

Diana. — A very delicious and fine light colored late Grape. Its great value 
is its long keeping qualities. We have seen it in April as fresh and fine as when 
picked from the vine. Bunches medium and very compact , flavor of a honey 
sweetness, and color about the same as the Catawba. 

Hartford Prolific. — A very valjable Grape, on account of its extreme earli- 
ness. Fruit similar to the Isabella, but ripens two to three weeks earlier. Vino 
hardy and productive. 

Iona. — A seedling of the Catawba. It is a red Grape ; skin thin ; pulp tender 
and exceedingly rich, with a peculiar delicious aroma ; berry good size and very 
uniform ; bunch large and beautiful, with one, and very often two shoulders. Early 
and very desirable. 

Israella. — Described by Chas. Downing as follows : " Ripens as early as th« 
Hartford Prolific, (one of the earliest of American Grapes,) or before it ; beginning 
to color about one week earlier ; but also superior in flavor, with handsomer and 
more compact bunch, adhering well, and keeping a long time after ripening ; it will 
be more valuable, and, from my present experience, I think it will prove the best 
early variety for this purpose I have yet seen." Again : " Both Iona and Israella 
have so far proved hardy, vigorous, and the foliage has been less injured by mildew 
than Delaware and most other sorts." 

Ives' Seedling. — Regarded as the best wine Grape ; hardy and productive ; 
about same season as Isabella. 

Isabella. — Bunches long, large, loose ; berries large, oval, juicy, sweet and 
musky. A vigorous grower, hardy and immense bearer ; one of the most popular 
of all our native varieties. 

Norton's Virginia. — Bunches long, rather loose ; berries small, no pulp 
vinous ; esteemed one of the beat wine Grapes in Missouri ; ripens well in this lati- 
tude ; vigorous and productive. 

Northern Muscadine. — An early, sweet fox Grape ; very productive ; must 
be gathered before too ripe, or it drops. 

Martha. — A newly disseminated "white" Grape, claimed to be "as healthy, 
vigorous and hardy as the Concord, and to grow in any locality where that popular 
sort succeeds. In quality it is claimed to be very sweet, with enough vinous acid to 
make it sprightly and delightful. It has a little of the 'native aroma,' scarcely 
perceptible to the taste ; very little pulp, which is tender and melting, and no un- 
pleasant acidity next the seed. The skin is thin, but tenacious ; in this respect like 
the Delaware. In color from a pale, yellowish green, with thin white bloom, when 
grown in the shade, to a delicate sulphur yellow with amber tint, when exposed to 



27 

the sun. Neither vine nor fruit havo ever shown any indication of mildew or rot. 
It ripens a week to ten days earlier than the Concord." 

Salem, (Rogers' No. 53.) — The only one of Rogers' Hybrids yet named ; 
now announced as one of the most valuable of all ; described as " bunch largo and 
compact; of a light chestnut color ; as early as Delaware or Hartford." 

Rogers' No. 4 — A magnificent black and large bunched Grape, claimed to be 
equal to the Concord in every respect, and better in some. Among the best of these 
Hybrids we name .Nos. 1, 3, 4, 9, 15, 19, 22, 30, 33, 34 and 43, and were we to select 
<j of them, should take Nos. 1, 4, 9, 15, 19 and 43. 

Union Village, (Ontario.) — A very large, coarse, foxy flavored Grape. Suc- 
ceeds in but few favorable localities. Generally condemned. 



CRANBERRY CULTIVATION. 

[copied.] 

" Cranberries, to produce best returns, need a suitable soil ; neither too wet nor 
too dry. A moist soil, of alluvial formation, is the only one in which they will 
succeed and continue productive with any degree of certainty ; but to a certain ex- 
tent they may be grown on upland, when suitably prepared and cultivated. 

" I will first briefly notice Cranberry culture on the 'bog' lands. If the land bo 
wet, drainage must be provided as the lirst thing ; ditches of sufficient number, 
depth and width, must be made to thoroughly drain every part. The land then 
will need to be thoroughly grubbed, and if a tough sod, or peaty surface, be skinned, 
and the sods burned and the ashes scattered, the surface made level and even, and 
cleared of everything that will interfere with the growth of the vine. Then cart 
on and spread clean sand to the depth of three or four inches, when the ground is 
ready for the vines. Land which is more firm is easier of preparation ; less ditch- 
ing will be necessary, grubbing, skinning and sanding perhaps less; it can usually 
be plowed, and may turn up sufficient sand, the weeding will usually be less. After 
plowing thoroughly, harrowing and raking off the roots, &c, the ground is usually 
considered ready for the vines, which are set in stools from one to three feet apart. 
But a better way is to plow and harrow several tiroes the first season, giving time 
between each to let seeds of weeds, &c., germinate. The following Spring, as soon 
as the weather will admit, make the ground mellow and level, and if necessary sand 
it two to four inches deep : lay off the rows two and a half or three feet each way, 
and set the plants at the crossings, the vines soon cover the ground, and previously 
there is space for ample clean cultivation All weeds and grass must be kept out 
till the vines take exclusive possession. In Cranberry culture it is best to ' make 
haste slowly' at the commencement, if we desire the most speedy and greatest 
pecuniary results. 

•' Spring planting is preferable to any other season ; any time in Spring up to the 
last of May. For upland culture the ground should be well pulverized and made 
clean of weeds and seed, and then covered with two or three inches of muck, which 
has been exposed during Winter, or with fine white sand. The plants are then 
set in rows, two feet apart and eighteen inches in the rows : set them three or four 
inches deep Cultivate till the vines spread and get in the way of cultivation. 
The worm and untimely frosts are the great difficulties to be encountered in grow- 
ing Cranberries, and the only successful remedy is by having the Cranberry patch 
eo arranged that it can be flowed with water in a few hours' notice. Cranberries 
should be picked by hand, spread in hurdles made of lath, left open for the air to 
pass through, not over five inches thick. Place these hurdles in a room where the 
air circulates freely, for three or four weeks ; they are then taken from the hurdles, 
winnowed and hand-picked, throwing out unsound berries, and packed in clean, dry 
barrels. 

" The ' Bell Cranberry.' so called from its resemblance in shape to a bell, is of 
good size, and almost as dark as blood coral ; and in some sections grows to great 
perfection. The ' Cherry Cranberry,' so called from its resemblance in size, shape 
and color to the cherry, is of two varieties, large and small. It is hard and very 



28 

dark, or blackish crimson when properly cultivated. There are a number of other 
species and sub-varieties, both wild and cultivated, but not as valuable as the above 
for either market or domestic use." 



CULTIVATION OF THE SWEET POTATO. 

This subject may not seem an appropriate one for this work, but as we have so 
many enquiries as to growing them, we have concluded to insert simple instructions 
for growing these and Asparagus. 

Choose a location where the soil is of a light sandy or loamy nature — no matter 
how poor. Plow and harrow well : then plow furrows three and a half feet apart; 
scatter in- the bottom of the furrows a good supply of partly rotted manure — say at 
the rate of ten or twelve loads to the acre ; throw together two furrows over the 
manure, so a* to leave the ridges broad on the top ; allow them to stand a few days 
to settle before the plants are set. If the ground is very dry when the plants are 
received, set them as follows, and not live per cent, will fail to grow. Have an- 
other person carry a pail of water and a small cup ; take the plant in the left hand 
and thrust the right hand into the top of the ridge, drawing it back towards you, 
drop the root in back of the hand ; at the same time have part of a gill of water 
poured in with the root, and press the dirt back quickly. 

If the ground is not very dry when they are set, they can be put in a pail of water 
and taken from the pail as they are set. Set them one foot to eighteen inches apart 
in the row. If there is a prospect of a frost after they are set, pass along with a 
hoe and throw a little dirt over the plant, or a piece of newspaper, taking it off next 
morning. Keep clean, and as they commence to run, pass through them occasion- 
ally with the cultivator. After they have run so as to till up between the rows, pass 
through every other row with a fork, throwing all the vines into every alternate 
row, and pass after with the cultivator. Then throw the vines out of the rows they 
are in into the rows which have been cultivated, and pass with the cultivator. This 
should bo done occasionally, to prevent the vines from rotting at the joints, which, 
if allowed to do, detracts from the growth of the potato. 



ASPARAGUS. 

No family should go without this early Spring luxury. It is prepared for the 
table the same as green peas, which is very similar to many preferring it. 

All that is necessary is to dig a trench one foot deep and wide ; place the roots in 
the bottom, six inches apart; fill up partly with well rotted manure; dig another 
trench one foot from the first, throwing the dirt out of it into the one that the roots 
are in; plant this in the same way, and thus keep on until all are set. Keep the 
bed well manured, which is best done by covering it with coarse manure every Fall 
and raking it off in the Spring. Old brine or salt is very beneficial to the bed. 

Whim gathering the Asparagus, cut it just below the surface. A bed should be 
transplanted one year before cutting to use. 



MARKETING FRUITS. 

" A little practice is the best teacher." It is almost impossible to give minute 
instructions on this subject. A visit to the market and dealer you intend to ship to 
will give you a better insight into the details of shipping, selling, &c, than can be 
learned from all the books" in the land. The question of supply and demand must 
be looked into. If the home market is small and your plantation large, you must 
acquaint yourself with a largo market to ship to. If the large market is likely to 
be fully supplied with a large quantity of inferior, " last run" fruit from a point 
further South, endeavor tonaake arrangements to ship your fruit to a market 
further North. 



29 

It takes but a small town to use the fruit from 3 to 5 acres, especially if an assort- 
ment that will keep up a perfect succession is judiciously planted. 

Our immense country, dotted so thickly with towns and cities, and these linked 
together with such a vast net-work of railroads and water communication, with the 
rapidly increasing population, must keep up an increasing and unlimited demand 
for Small Fruits. Take, for instance, the great city of New York and its suburbs, 
with its fifteen hundred thousand consumers, and allow but one quart per day to 
ten persons, and the consumption amounts to five thousand bushels per day; add to 
this the immense amount that is re-shipped to inland towns, with the enormous 
quantities that are used in Baltimore, Philadelphia, Boston, &c, and some idea 
can be formed of the amount used, and what becomes of the crop raised throughout 
the country. The same is true of Cincinnati, St. Louis, Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, 
Chicago, Milwaukee, &c. They all receive their supply from the extreme South 
first, and then from points further North, and last from extreme Northern localities. 
As an illustration, we have known of fruit stands in Chicago being supplied daily 
with Strawberries for twelve weeks. 

If these markets get over-stocked at any time, the wideawake commission mer- 
chant (if he understands his business and has had sufficient experience) will have 
acquaintances in either Northern or Southern towns, where the season for that 
fruit is past or not commenced, that he can ship his surplus to, or he will notify his 
consignors of the market, so that they can change the course of their shipments 
It is most generally, however, the bes"t course to ship right along to the same mar- 
ket, as these " gluts" do not last but a day or so, as many who are shipping from 
long distances, or sending in an inferior class of fruit that hardly pay for shipping 
and selling expenses, but" which have a tendency to run down prices, even on good 
fruit, stop their shipments and dispose of their fruit nearer home, the result being 
that the price goes up again. Wen member one season we were shipping from 
South Bend to Chicago, from 150 to 200 bushels per day, and getting good paying 
prices. All at once the price dropped down extremely low, and telegrams came to 
us thick and fast to stop shipping, as the market was glutted, and berries were being 
thrown into the river. A letter received at the same time from our commission 
merchants, informed us that heavy consignments were being received from Pitts- 
burgh, Cleveland, and other points. We at once saw what it all meant. These 
distant parties had heard of the high prices that were ruling in Chicago, and had 
changed the course of the bulk of their shipments to that point. We consulted 
with our neighboring growers, and notwithstanding we could have turnedthe 
course of our shipments to other points for a day or two, and realized fair prices, 
we concluded our best courso was to ship to Chicago all the berries we could for a day 
or two. The result was, the market was over-run, and those berries from long dis- 
tances hardly sold for enough to pay express charges ; while ours, going in fresh, 
sold for just about enough to pay all expenses. The result was, berries stopped 
coming from these distant points/and prices advanced again to good paying rates 
for the rest of the season. Now, what is the lesson to be derived from this one cir- 
cumstance ? Simply this : Had these parties commenced light shipments for a day 
or two in advance, and notified the commission houses in Chicago what they might 
expect from them, it would have given them an opportunity to inform parties in 
smaller towns what they could expect from them, and thus by due notice and prepa- 
ration, the bulk of the shipments could have been re shipped to other points, and 
the market rates but little, if any, changed ; and again, had we stopped our regular 
daily shipments to our regular consignors, it might have thrown them out of their 
regular supply, and those who depended on them for their retail supply would have 
looked elsewhere, and perhaps changed their placeof buying. We formerly shipped 
in what is termed the Cincinnati case, made up of 3 to 6 drawers, and fully de- 
scribed elsewhere in this work. These were shipped to Chicago, Toledo, Detroit 
and Milwaukee, from 80 to 150 miles, and sold out and cases returned. For near 
markets we used the small square quart box, made by ourselves, and also described 
herein. These cases and boxes, however, have " seen their day," and have been 
supplanted by the later improvements in quart and pint boxes ; the best kinds, in 
our estimation, being described and priced in the latter part of this work. They 
are light and durable, and so cheap that if lost tuey can be replaced with but little 
expense. For near markets, strong slat cases can be made to hold So, 45 or 60 
baskets. For distant markets, where the Express Co. charge for returning the 



so 

empty cases, they can be shipped in a cheap slat case, to hold 45 to 60 quarts, that 
will not cost over 20 to SO cents. These need not be returned, except what is neces- 
sary to hold the baskets when " nested" together, and if the grower has a good 
supply of boxes, and is in no hurry to have the empty boxes returned, he can order 
them returned as freight, if the Express Co. charge too much tor returning them. 

These boxes are a great improvement on the old style of cases for two or three 
reasons. 1st. Fruit carries better in them, not getting so bruised and mashed. 2d. 
Air has free passage among them, so that they can be shipped 500 to, 1,000 miles 
without spoiling. 3d. It appears to so much better advantage on the fruit stands in 
these neat, clean looking baskets and boxes, that many are induced to buy who 
would not if they were in rusty, dirty looking drawers and boxes. 

And, too, these boxes and baskets can be used a number of times by hav- 
ing them nested together and returned as described, all the expense being the loss of 
the cheap case they are shipped in. The further the fruit is to be shipped, the more 
baskets will bo required to market the crop, as it takes longer to go and come. It 
is best to always be supplied with plenty of boxes, for if they are not all used they 
will come right the next season. An acre of Strawberries that is in good condition 
will require at least 1 ,00* ► quart boxes, where the fruit is to be sold near by, but if 
it is to be shipped 100 to 2i)U miles away, at least 2,000 should be procured for each 
acre. Keep the fruit picked over every day, if possible, so that it will not get over- 
ripe. Still, we have made it a practice in our large plantation to pick half of the 
plantation each day. 

It is the practice with many to have two sets of boxes, in every picking case, 
putting the largest and finest fruit in one, and the smaller and poorer in the other. 
The smallest fruit will sell for enough to pay the expenses of the plantation, while 
the larger, if sent to some of the larger cities, where they appreciate first-class fruit, 
and are willing to pay accordingly, will sell for as much or more than all the fruit, 
large and small, superior and inferior, picked and marketed all together. 

If possible, notify your agent a day in advance of the amount he may expect 
from you, and if a storm should come up that will prevent your picking, telegraph 
him, so that he will not engage berries on the strength of your notice the day 
previous. 

Keep up a regular rotation of as many kinds of fruit as you can throughout the 
entire season, if you desire to keep up a good reputation with your commission 
merchant, for they will take pains to do the best by thosn who supply them the most 
regular for the longest time. Ship clean, evenly-ripened fruit, in clean, neat look- 
ing baskets or boxes, with your name on each box and case, and no trouble need be 
apprehended but what your fruit will sell for paying prices, even if the market is 
largely supplied. 

Send each day by mail invoice of shipment, and require prompt returns and re- 
ports from the consignor. 

Do not pick the fruit when wet by dew or rain, unless it is positively necessary, 
from frequent showers, to prevent too many ripening up. Take from the field to 
market or cars in a spring wagon, and have them handled carefully and kept " right 
side up." 



GATHERING THE FRUIT. 

We usually employ women, and large boys and girls — the former, however, pre-- 
ferred. Each takes a row, and picks it clean before being allowed to take another. 
One good quick person takes charge of them, keeping each on their row, and passing 
occasionally behind them to see if they are picking them clean and properly. One 
person takes charge of the boxes as they are brought in, watching to see if stems,, 
green fruit and leaves are among the berries, and if so, the picker is paid less for 
picking that case. Another person has an alphebetic tally-book, with the names of 
all pickers alphabetically arranged, and as each picker comes in, their name is called 
out by the receiver andrepeated by the book-keeper, so that there will be no mistake 
made. Another method is to have tickets to hand out to the pickers each time they 
bring in a case of berries, these tickets being presented on pay day. We usually 
pay from one to two cents per quart for picking, owing of course to the picking. 



81 



The fruit should bo kept in the shade after being picked. For this purpose we 
have cheap sheds in different parts of the plantation. These can be made so as to 
be moved from one place to another, if desired. 



Rules for Number of Plants Required on an Acre. 

Multiply the distance in feet between the rows by the distance the plants are apart 
in the rows, and their product will be the number of square feet for each plant or 
hill ; which, divided into the number of feet in an acre, (43,500,) will give tlie num- 
ber of Plants or Trees to the acre. For instance : 

Strawberries, 1 foot by 3=3)43,590(14,530. 

Raspberries, - - 6 feet by 6=36)43,590(1,210. 

Dwarf Pears, - 12 " 12=144)43,590(302. 



FRUIT BOXES. 

For making a cheap and strong quart box, and those which can be packed in the 
smallest and most convenient compass, have plank got out precisely 3^ inches thick. 
Have these worked up with a fine buzz saw into end pieces 4| inches long, 3\ inches 
wide, and one-quarter inch thick, and sides 5 inches long, 3£ inches wide, and 
one-eighth inch thick, and bottoms 4J inches long and same width and thickness. 
Use two of these slats for bottom, having them nailed inside one-fourth inch from 
the bottom of sides and ends, so that one box can set above another in the packing 
case without bruising the fruit on top of the box under. When nailed together 
they make a strong, dry measure quart box, just five inches square and three inches 
deep inside. Another plan, by which the fruit gets more air, is to nail on the sides 
three slats, the same length and thickness, and five-eighths inches wide, which, by 
nailing the lower one three-eighths inches from the bottom, leaves three cracks, 
three-eighths inches wide. For nailing together, use brads five eighths or three- 
quarters inches long. 



PACKING CASES. 

For packing the above'quart boxes in to ship, get out end pieces three quarters an 
inch thick, with a cleat one-half inch thick and two inches wide, nailed on the 
outside even with the ends to prevent the end piece from spliting. Have these end 
pieces 20£ inches long and 7 inches wide (which makes the height and width of 
box inside sufficient to hold two tiers of boxes and four boxes wide). Get out slats 
for nailingon the bottom and sides, 82} inches long, 3 inches wide and J inch 
thick. Nail two of these on for sides, having the bottom one come even with the 
bottom of end piece, and the top one come within J inch of the top of end piece, 
the \ inch space being left for air to pass under the cover. Nailed on thus it leaves 
a crack between them of £ inch in width. Nail two of the bottom slats on so that 
they will come even with the outside of the lower side slat, fastening them with 
two or three small nails to these lower side slats — thus adding great strength to the 
case. Between those on the bottom nail three slats, such a distance a part that the 
outer edge of the quart box will come to center of the slats— thus leaving cracks 
directly under the boxes. Nail a cleat, 2 inches wide, J inch thick and 21 inches 
long, over ends of bottom slats ; make a cover of half inch stuff, nailed together 
at the ends with same cleats. The quart boxes described above can be heaped a 
little to allow for settling, and as thy bottoms are raised they can be set on top of 
each other without jamming the fruit, and thereforo require no partition between. 
This same style of case answers for the American Basket. Beecher Basket, &c , 
only that it will have to be made a different size to correspond with the size of 
these baskets, and so a partition will be required for each tier of baskets to set on. 



32 

Those partitions are made as follows : Tako 5 strips, \ inch square, and length of 
crate inside ; place them the width of a basket apart or 60, that they will come 
over the sides of the baskets ; across thesn nail slats, 2 inches wide, \ inch thick 
and as long as the crate is wide inside. Have these slats placed so that the edges 
Oi the tier of boxes above will set on them. When the first tier of baskets or 
boxes are placed in the crat«, put in this partition, and it will be. seen that thes° 
half inch square straps will come down on the edges of every basket, thus holding 
them firm <ind in their place If it is desired to have more than two tier of boxes, 
more partitions can be made and set in in tho same way. The crate should be 
made such a depth that when the top is on it will bo a half inch above tops of last 
baskets. Under the cover nail three of the half inch square slats so as to come 
over edge of baskets This holds all inside lirm, and bv the partitions and cover 
being raised .', inch it allows for heaping the baskets some without danger of mash- 
ing fruit. The etuis of crates should be got out of thoroughly seasoned lumber, so 
that no shrinkage will occur in height of box. No harm is done if tho slats do 
shrink — consequently they can be got out of green stuff if it is more convenient. 



PICKING STANDS. 



For gathering fruit to empty into the Cincinnati Cases as described on third page 
of cover, we have used a box three inches high and nine by ten inches square inside, 
which holds four quarts, dry measure. A leg eight inches long is nailed to each 
corner, and a hoop bent over the top and nailed to two sides for a handle. Four of 
these stands are emptied into each drawer as they are brought in, or, if the quart 
boxes or baskets are used to ship in, make the picking stand a little larger, so that 
four of the boxes will tit in, and as fast as filled, take them out and put others in 
to fill. 



QUART BASKETS. 



We have almost constant enquiries as to what box or basket we can recommend 
for shipping fruit To save the great tax upon our time that is required to an- 
swer such enquiries, we have admitted advertisements herein of what are now con- 
ceded to be the best and most perfect Our estimate of them is so high that we 
shall use them altogether hereafter 

In some of tho Western markets the quart boxes 
are not used for marketing, but cases or stands made 
up of four drawers — each drawer holding sixteen 
quarts. The drawers arc three inches deep, sixteen 
inches wide, and twenty-four inches long, insidk, 
which, after allowing some for shrinkage, holds just 
one-half bushel, dry measure. The sides and ends 
are one-half inch, and bottoms one-quarter inch 
thick, except lower drawer, .which is one-half inch. 
The end pieces pass by the sides one-half inch. The 
posts one inch by two and one-half inches, are nailed strongly on 
to each corner of the lower drawer, so that the other three drawers 
slip inside of the posts. The posts are then cut off just even with 
the top of the cover. The cover is made of half-inch stuff, fas- 
tened together by two pieces, one inch by two and one-half inches. 
These pieces fit over the top of the posts, coming just to the out- 
side, and are fastened down on one side with light hinges, and 
on the other by light pieces of hoop-iron six inches long, which 
are nailed on top of the top pieces and bent over and fastened to the posts with 
screws* The engravings herewith will show at a glance how they are made. 





WMM 

SMALL FRUIT RECORDER, 

Devoted to the Interest of Small Fruits— Their Cultivation 
and Care in the Family Garden or Market Field. 

PUBLISHED B~5T PURIDY Sc JOHNSTON, 

PALMYRA, N. Y. 

First Number Issued the First of April, 

1869. 

Terms, 50 Cents for Balance of Year. Twelve Copies for $5.00. 



THE ONLY PAPER IN THE UNITED STATES DEVOTED TO THE 
CULTURE OF SMALL FRUIT. 



Advertising rates 20 cts per line first insertion ; 15 cts per line if repeated. 





The Baskets and Crates 
•of the American Basket 
Co. have taken the First 
Premium wherever exhibit- 
ed. At the New England. 
New York, Ohio, Illinois, 
Indiana, Wisconsin, Ken- 
tucky, and various other fairs, and are the admiration of all who have seen them. 

The Baskets are neat and durable, convenient for picking the fruit, or for packing 
in Crates, and occupy fully one-fourth less space than round boxes or baskets. The 
•Crates arc made of strong white wood, put together with annealed and clinched 
nails, and corner irons, and are so arranged that the berries cannot be misplaced or 
3tolen. 

Grape and Packing Boxes made to order, of any size or form, from two to ten 
inches square, and sent to any distance in pieces ready to bo put together; the 
Packing Boxes are as light as paper, much stronger, and equally as cheap. 

TESTIMONIALS. 

The Baskets are neatly and durably constructed, and are admirably suited for marketing Straw- 
berries, Raspberries aod Currants. Fruit carries safely in them for a longdistance. They are at 
the same time, a very cheap basket. J. KNOX, Pittsburgh, l*a. 

Your Baskets and (rates have given universal satisfaction, not only to me, the Producer, but also 
•..o the Consumer, the Retail Dealer, the Express Agents -in fact, all concerned. My berries sold for 
£% cts. per quart more than any other in market. E. WILCOX & SON, Trempealeau, Wis. 

A friend of mine says that he obtained seven cents per quart more for his berries put up in your 
Baskets than fur those sent In other styles. I'retty good price, just for the looks »fa basket. 

ANDREW S. POLLER, Woodside Nursery. RidgewoOd, N.J. 

Addresss, AMERICAN BASKET COMPANY, New Britian, Conn., \ M.-.&.rnr*™ 

And NEffFANE BOX & BASKET CO,, Newfane, Niagara Ci , N. Y., ' manuiacxurers ' 

ILLVSTRATED CIUCULAES FREE. 



South Bend Nursery and Small Fruit Farm. 

*•• — 

Eighty acres compactly planted. Situated close to and within the 

city limits, on La Porte and Washington Streets. 

• • » 

Having purchased the grounds and stock formerly owned by Mr. Johnston, and 
known as "Johnston's Nttkseries, 1 ' with his "goodwill/' we arc now prepared 
with this increase to our stock and groundsj to fill all orders that we may be favored 
with in the best manner, and with promptness and dispatch, guaranteeing the most 
perfect satisfaction to all. 

\\ o make S.M A LL FRUITS our specialty, and as we give our personal attention 
to the planting and fruiting of all, we will guarantee every sort we send out true to 
name. We have, perhaps, cultivated as many varieties of Small Fruits as any 
grower in the country, and have been to a great expense in so doing, and have 
discarded those sorts which have proved worthless and retained those only which 
have some valuable peculiarities. As to the new sorts that are being yearly intro- 
duced, we shall always endeavor to obtain such from reliable parties, regardless of 
expense, and have the same for sale as soon as any other dealer. 

We have in our possession letters from customers in ecery state of the Union, 
speaking in the most Mattering terms of our plants and perfect system of packing. 
Out of over fifteen hundred orders filled last Spring and Fall, we have received but 
very few complaints, and have endeavored to give satisfaction to these when it was 
shown that we were to blame. 

Price Lists, Retail or Wholesale, sent on receipt of stamp. 

Address, PTOBW & IIAKGS, $®isi& Send!, lad* 



Paten tt-tl Mny 31st, 1 SO 1. 



This Basket, in the past two or three years, has earned for itself a reputation as a 
reliable and substantial contrivance for transporting and marketing all kinds of 
small fruit, beyond that of any other box or basket yet brought to notice. 

The facilities for ventilation offered by it are perfect, and being so. makes this 
basket of more real utility for the preservation of the fruit than is generally supposed 
by fruit growers. The accompanying cut shows the form and construction of this 
basket, which will be seen is such as to give both strength and lightness, while com- 
bining utility with beauty. 

At the Horticultural Exhibition of the American Institute, 
held at Cooper Union last June, a prize was ottered for the 
best berry box or basket, price and durability considered. 
This premium was awarded to 

BEECHER'S VENEER FRUIT BASKET. 

The testimony thus given is fully sustained by the commission dealers in our city 
markets, and by all who handle fruit packed in these baskets. 

To those fruit raisers who have tried our baskets, we have nothing to say, except 
to thank them for tin ir good opinion, as expressed to us in their various written 
communications ; but of that other class who have not used them, we ask an early 
trial, and warrant them a satisfaction in it. Wc furnish crates for these baskets 
when needed, and of sizes as requested. We have local agents in nearly all cities 
and towns throughout the country, who will supply these baskets at manufacturers' 
rates. 

All goods ordered of us will be forwarded as promptly as possible, taking them in 
the order received. 

Circulars of l»rici>, el«., sent on application to 

THE KEECFfER 1 BASKET ©©.„ WestvIM©, Qom. 




